devilsadvocate Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 Hey So my MOT is due in Jan and the handbrake does not hold the car, even on a slight hill. I bought new discs, pads and handbrake shoes. Changed them all and adjusted the shoes via the adjuster inside the hub bit. It now holds the car but only if pulled up about 7 or 8 clicks! I can't adjust them anymore via the Hub as otherwise I can't turn the wheels by hand so. I am thinking the cable might be stretched beyond limit? I can't see it being anything else as I have replaced it all! Thoughts? Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 Adjust the cable inside the car, two adjusting nuts just behind the handbrake lever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilsadvocate Posted November 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 Adjust the cable inside the car, two adjusting nuts just behind the handbrake lever. I tried this but the nuts are already maybe 1.5-2 inches from the end of the thread and looking at pictures online, I think this suggests my cable is stretched? To be fair, I haven't done those bolts up much more but I don't think there is much more they can be done up! Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TERKIN Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 1 hour ago, devilsadvocate said: I tried this but the nuts are already maybe 1.5-2 inches from the end of the thread and looking at pictures online, I think this suggests my cable is stretched? To be fair, I haven't done those bolts up much more but I don't think there is much more they can be done up! Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk did you slacken the nuts lever end before adjusting at the wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilsadvocate Posted November 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 1 hour ago, devilsadvocate said: I tried this but the nuts are already maybe 1.5-2 inches from the end of the thread and looking at pictures online, I think this suggests my cable is stretched? To be fair, I haven't done those bolts up much more but I don't think there is much more they can be done up! Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk did you slacken the nuts lever end before adjusting at the wheels? Slackened them off about half way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz 330 Cs Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 To start with the handbrake shouldn't be coming up 7 or 8 clicks. I'd say it's too slack for one reason or another to begin with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilsadvocate Posted November 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 Ok so I seem to have sorted this out, although I don't think I could ever trust the handbrake on this model! Loosened the two nuts by the lever so they were slack. Then adjusted through the wheel hole both sides, once I could no longer turn the disc by hand, I backed off a few clicks. This is both sides. Then I pulled the lever up a few times. Then I pulled up two clicks and did the nuts up until I could no longer turn the rear wheels by hand. I then backed the nuts off a little. Handbrake now comes up 4-5 clicks and seems to hold the car, as said I wouldn't trust it but should pass an MOT which is all I wanted anyway. Cheers for the replies everyone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Foe 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foe Posted November 20, 2016 Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 Good to see you posted you fix. This is my next jobs, as it seems the handbrake only works on one side! can I ask, even though you've fixed it, why don't you trust it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilsadvocate Posted November 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 Good to see you posted you fix. This is my next jobs, as it seems the handbrake only works on one side! can I ask, even though you've fixed it, why don't you trust it? It's not worked since I got the car a year ago and plenty of people on the forums say the handbrake on the 3 series is not the best. It just doesn't seem strong enough to hold that amount of weight on a steep ish hill. Maybe it's become habit but I will still be leaving it in gear just in case [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foe Posted November 20, 2016 Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 I have hear the handbrake isn't the best, just a shame it has a bad reputation. There must be a trick to doing it!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasa Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 10 hours ago, Foe said: Good to see you posted you fix. This is my next jobs, as it seems the handbrake only works on one side! can I ask, even though you've fixed it, why don't you trust it? that is the problem,the two cables become slack,and one more than the other,so when its applied,it feels lke only one side works as the car squats to one side,but the fix that has been posted is the correct way to do it.here is a pdf of how to do it with pics etc..http://www.csfrancis.net/BMW/pbdiy.pdf Markxr and Foe 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foe Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 2 hours ago, rasa said: that is the problem,the two cables become slack,and one more than the other,so when its applied,it feels lke only one side works as the car squats to one side,but the fix that has been posted is the correct way to do it.here is a pdf of how to do it with pics etc..http://www.csfrancis.net/BMW/pbdiy.pdf Awesome guide, thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz 330 Cs Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 15 hours ago, Foe said: I have hear the handbrake isn't the best, just a shame it has a bad reputation. There must be a trick to doing it!? It's a bit of a myth. I had my Cs 8 years and zero issues in that time, even at MOT time. RichS and Foe 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 4.5 years of ownership. No issues with handbrake either. I even bought shoes for it ages ago and then found I didn't need them. Hardly any wear. Foe and RichS 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasa Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 18 hours ago, Daz 330 Cs said: It's a bit of a myth. I had my Cs 8 years and zero issues in that time, even at MOT time. probably,like most cars,folk just pull up too hard,creating ,stretch,then it gets adjusted wrongly,then the cycle begins,most cars will have a dodgy handbrake at some point if bee abused,its the same on my st,they are supoosed to have dodgy handbrakes,but on my steep drive,2-3 clicks and its solid,my advice is,just pull up handbrake for the slope you are on,ie on a flat it takes virtually nothing to hold a car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadodo Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 Its all down to adjustment, when done properly the system works fine but does need regular adjustment to keep it at optimum efficiency. The shoes and inside of the rear disks need to checked for condition and lack of contamination. Whilst doing that remove and lubricate the adjuster screws and lubricate all the shoe mechanism touch and pivot points. Slacken off the cable adjusters so there in NO tension on the cables. Adjust the shoes so that you cannot turn the disks by hand, then slacken off until you can turn them with just a slight amount of drag but no more. Tighten the cable nuts to 3 to 4 clicks of handbrake travel. Pull the handbrake on and off several times to settle the shoes. Slacken of the cable nuts so there is no tension (shouldn't be at this stage anyway), re-adjust the shoes if the drag has gone (which I would expect unless you were really lucky on the shoe placement) and re-adjust the cable nuts again to 3 - 4 clicks. Both my E46s have excellent handbrakes that hold the cars well on slopes. When BMW did my rear axle carrier on my M3 even they didn't adjust the handbrake well even after 2 attempts. When I did it as above the problem was resolved. Foe 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasa Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 1 hour ago, Megadodo said: Its all down to adjustment, when done properly the system works fine but does need regular adjustment to keep it at optimum efficiency. The shoes and inside of the rear disks need to checked for condition and lack of contamination. Whilst doing that remove and lubricate the adjuster screws and lubricate all the shoe mechanism touch and pivot points. Slacken off the cable adjusters so there in NO tension on the cables. Adjust the shoes so that you cannot turn the disks by hand, then slacken off until you can turn them with just a slight amount of drag but no more. Tighten the cable nuts to 3 to 4 clicks of handbrake travel. Pull the handbrake on and off several times to settle the shoes. Slacken of the cable nuts so there is no tension (shouldn't be at this stage anyway), re-adjust the shoes if the drag has gone (which I would expect unless you were really lucky on the shoe placement) and re-adjust the cable nuts again to 3 - 4 clicks. Both my E46s have excellent handbrakes that hold the cars well on slopes. When BMW did my rear axle carrier on my M3 even they didn't adjust the handbrake well even after 2 attempts. When I did it as above the problem was resolved. did you not see the link i put for the how too? Megadodo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadodo Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 I did but mine differs slightly in technique and I offer it as an alternative to reviewed by the OP and then they can decide which method to try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foe Posted November 27, 2016 Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 I finally sorted this today, and ended up replacing the rear discs as well. I must say Megadodo your guide was easy to follow. I bought the meyle rear handbrake kit, it had all the fittings. Anyway after following the guide, which took me all afternoon. I found the steepest hill and my god what a difference. ANYONE who say's the e46 handbrake is poo, must first sort the adjusting out. I'm now going to check mine at every oil change. I must also mention the inside of the disc, where the hand brake shoes mate the surface, was totally rusted through. Megadodo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichS Posted November 28, 2016 Report Share Posted November 28, 2016 never had an issue with my handbrake, lots of issues with oil leaks though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foe Posted November 28, 2016 Report Share Posted November 28, 2016 17 hours ago, Rich (BoxClever) said: never had an issue with my handbrake, lots of issues with oil leaks though! haha, a working handbrake, but still not solved that one! RichS 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim-Ci Posted December 11, 2016 Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 Mine failed the MOT last week on the handbrake. I knew the inside of the disk was in a poor state but the handbrake still worked to a degree, so I wasn't too bothered before. I've replaced the disks with ATE disks (factory fit make) and fitted ATE handbrake shoes - I'm hoping ATE shoes on an ATE disk stands the best chance of working well. My backplate was at the stage where it was beginning to rust slightly (11 years, 145,000 miles), so I covered it in black anti rust gunk, and fitted one of the slotted washers to reinforce the handbrake pin area. I've yet to bed the shoes in properly and readjust the handbrake shoes, and I can see there's only a fraction of the shoe material in contact before bedding (raised ridges in the moulding of the friction material), but so far the handbrake feels twice as good as before, and even both sides now. I spent some time cleaning up all the mating surfaces to and lubricating them and the expanding lock, so it all runs freely. Hopefully once I've bedded the shoes things will be even better, I'd give it a 6/10 at the moment. Foe 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim-Ci Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 I bedded and readjusted my handbrake today. It now locks the wheels on a wet road, but I've got a new set of Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tyres on the rear which are quite grippy, so a good result I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
