Barrie Posted May 21, 2009 Report Share Posted May 21, 2009 I'm thinking mine is stuck closed... With it all hooked up as per default :- Should the valve be open or closed with the engine switched off? How hard should it be to move manually? Am I missing any easy way to check if it's opening or not without getting a friend to blip the throttle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STRANGLEY BROWN Posted May 21, 2009 Report Share Posted May 21, 2009 Found this Guys. Sort of clears up what it does question..... That is called the Active Exhaust System Actuator (AESA). The AESA consists of the following: Exhaust flap with vacuum actuatorSolenoid actuator valveVacuum reservoir with check valveMS 41.1 control module The electrical function of the exhaust flap operation is controlled by the MS 41.1 module. At idle speeds, up to 2500 RPM: the exhaust flap is closed with vacuum applied to the actuator. This causes the exhaust gas to pass through the long resonator pipe, reducing the low frequency noise that is generated. Above 2500 RPM: the exhaust flap opens. This allows the exhaust to pass through the short pipe which maximizes the back pressure effect to provide the best performance. In the event of electrical or vacuum failure the flap will rest in the open position providing maximum exhaust throughput. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Posted May 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2009 Found this Guys. Sort of clears up what it does question..... That is called the Active Exhaust System Actuator (AESA). The AESA consists of the following: Exhaust flap with vacuum actuatorSolenoid actuator valveVacuum reservoir with check valveMS 41.1 control module The electrical function of the exhaust flap operation is controlled by the MS 41.1 module. At idle speeds, up to 2500 RPM: the exhaust flap is closed with vacuum applied to the actuator. This causes the exhaust gas to pass through the long resonator pipe, reducing the low frequency noise that is generated. Above 2500 RPM: the exhaust flap opens. This allows the exhaust to pass through the short pipe which maximizes the back pressure effect to provide the best performance. In the event of electrical or vacuum failure the flap will rest in the open position providing maximum exhaust throughput. Nice find Nick, I'll update the orginal post and pop that in when i get home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Posted May 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2009 I'm thinking mine is stuck closed... With it all hooked up as per default :- Should the valve be open or closed with the engine switched off? How hard should it be to move manually? Am I missing any easy way to check if it's opening or not without getting a friend to blip the throttle? Hi Barrie, I'm pretty sure the flap should be open with the engine turned off (cant say 100% as mine was stuck shut). When the engine is switched on it should close and then as you rev above 2500rpm it should open up. It should be fairly easy to move with ur fingers/a tool, if not and its quite difficult you may be in the same boat i was in and might be rusted/stuck shut. You should be able to hear the flap opening and closing as you rev above aprox 2500rpm if you havent got someone to watch it. Try it with all the windows down and look out for the noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrie Posted May 21, 2009 Report Share Posted May 21, 2009 Cheers, I couldn't budge it when prodding it hard with a spanner, so seems its stuck shut... ( I wasn't sure how much force the operating mechanism might exert ) Not too surprising given it's elderly previous owners I guess I'll find out myself anyway, but does this cripple the top-end performance much? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Lam Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 Hi ppl hope you guys are enjoying the fab weather!! anyway for the pass 3/4 days the flap has been stuck up, but now it seem to be plapping around? does anyone know how to stop this? i havent done the mod if you think that might be the cause. when it was stuck opened the flap was diagonal,as picture 1 of jonny! but now the flap doesnt even move that far, only slightly. as picture 2! thanks will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattycarmad Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 Hi all, Based on a quick look of the diagram 'STRANGLEY BROWN' kindly supplied, wouldn't it be easier and tidier to simply disconnect the electrical connection on the Vacuum Vent Valve?? As the diagram states..."In the event of electrical or vacuum failure the flap will rest in the open position providing maximum exhaust throughput.". I.e. if you just unplu this valve it will stay open anyway and removes the need for the golf tee... Your thoughts?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philmots Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 I unplugged this tube but i deffo reckon mine's stuck shut! I haven't plugged the tube though, just left it open.. Not harming anything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muly Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 Hi all, Based on a quick look of the diagram 'STRANGLEY BROWN' kindly supplied, wouldn't it be easier and tidier to simply disconnect the electrical connection on the Vacuum Vent Valve?? As the diagram states..."In the event of electrical or vacuum failure the flap will rest in the open position providing maximum exhaust throughput.". I.e. if you just unplu this valve it will stay open anyway and removes the need for the golf tee... Your thoughts?? You could unplug the electric connector but as it takes 30 seconds to pull the hose off and plug it so its quicker that way philmots- if you have pulled the pipe off it needs to be blocked anything will do small bolt etc so long as its a tight seal if you leave it unblocked the flap will stay shut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philmots Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 ^ You reckon, once that pipe's disconnected it has nothing to do with the valve anymore, so surely it make sno differene if it's blocked or not!? :S Will try it anywayz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrie Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 ^ You reckon, once that pipe's disconnected it has nothing to do with the valve anymore, so surely it make sno differene if it's blocked or not!? :S Will try it anywayz. Where does the vacuum come from? You possibly/probably don't want air leaking in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 The valve works on my car. When you start it up you can hear it shut, at first the exhaust seems really boomy, then the valve shuts and it all goes quiet. Once the engine is turned off after about 5 seconds you hear it open again as all vacuum has gone from the pipe. I did the golf tee mod and confirm once the pipe is pulled off and blocked, the valve will stay in the open position all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan. Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 mines permanently open, with no evidence of a previous mod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattbull86 Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 mines permanently open, with no evidence of a previous mod Mine too, and definately with no previous mod! Does this not mean we have had a vacuum or an electrical failure though going by the diagram strangelybrown kindly put up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Natedogg Posted September 11, 2009 Report Share Posted September 11, 2009 jusy carried this out last night on my 323i. not a huge difference in go, more meaty sound above 2k - but the best bit - about 2mpg more according to the trip computer so a free mod, thats imroves the sound, and give better economy. bags full of win. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richy_Boy Posted September 11, 2009 Report Share Posted September 11, 2009 I might look at doing this to mine for a laugh.. although I'd be concerned that if the actuator NEVER moves it'll seize up pretty quickly. My car rattles the garage door in the morning it's so loud, then quietens off after about 30 seconds until it's silent. Interestingly, as it fails in the open position, I recon you could fit a 'turbo bleed valve' in the piping and control when it opens. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnyT87 Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 no mate, when the car is at low revs there is a suction through the pipe that pulls the valve shut when you turn the engine off the suction stops so the butterfly valve opens (so the valve fails to open) as it also stops the suction when at higher revs therefore the valve opens. hope this is some help to you mate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrie Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 FWIW mine's sort've semi-seized, I can force it open, but after a few days or so it closes itself and wont open itself. It might just need some oil and wiggling, else at some point I'll wedge it open and disconnect the pipe.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob- Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 dont mean to sound like a kiljoy but if i i had this valve id want it to work properly? dont get the point of the car sounding louder at idle, it can only make the car sound less refined, id want to save the noise for when i opened the taps, then when the valve does open it really is like night and day. just my opinion good write up tho! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrie Posted September 24, 2009 Report Share Posted September 24, 2009 I wouldn't say it sounds less refined, and I'd agree with others that it does feel more torquey ( though that may be psychological ). I'm certainly not going to spend much money fixing mine if I can just wedge it open... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted September 24, 2009 Report Share Posted September 24, 2009 Did mine last night. started it from cold and revved it a little and it had a nice rasp to it now too! Mine was well and truely rusted shut! flat headed screwdriver and a few taps sorted it right out!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cunni Posted September 24, 2009 Report Share Posted September 24, 2009 Well i think im in the 325 club of i dont have this valve Not that it makes a differnce but i was hoping for a bit more boom from the back end noice without any £'s needed. Ahh well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICSD Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 I've just tried to release a stuck valve - thanks for the topic by the way - and actually bent the valve on the right hand side but still not opening. I've sprayed with penatrating oil - any other ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///MARKYBHOYSBM Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 I had this problem, tried everything to loosen it! Ended up removing the valve alltogether with a hammer and chissel, sounds harsh but it just broke off with a few taps!! looks better aswell!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hands330 Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 Hi guys, i had the rusted shut problem too, managed to eventully bash the right side of the flap open, but had to put several holes in the left side using a cobalt steel drill(as it seemed to be hardened steel), then i managed to get my estwing nail remover to bend the flap outwords Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
