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Johnny 5C

1999 318i Oil Leak

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Got it.

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Cant find one on ECP. Getting hits from ebay, but mught just clean mine out with IPA. Will do the ICV too. Does the M43TU have an EGR valve?

I'm in a clean or replace mood. Can you tell?

Cheers Jim for all your help.

John

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Hi. I think an EGR Valve is on a Diesel, did you phone ECP and ask?. I can't think of anything else at the minute. Jim

PS Finding my way around the new layout is taking a while, found out how to copy & paste now need to find how to preview post,

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Number 8 i mentioned above I now understand is the DISA valve. Is it worth whipping this out and giving it a clean too?

Found this camshaft sensor CCV DIY on Fanatics:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=660192

Loos like you are busy on that website too Jim.....

Am i chasing my tail trying to make my 4 pot run and sound like I expected a BMW too?

I was surprised how perky my little M43TU was when i drove to Penzance at the weekend. For an 8 valve, it goes OK! (First time on a long trip without the family on board. Had to give it a little of the right foot).

Only hope all this work might make it more fuel efficient. Put £20 in at Yeovil, and the light came on again at Southampton! 75 miles!!!

Cheers

John

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Long live the 1.9 8 valvers! :lol:

As you said above they arent a bad engine and when running nice are near enough silent (inside the car with the bonett down obviously :lol:)

The disa valve can only be removed for inspection or changing, there is nothing you can do to it when its out unfortunately. Mine occasionally makes a noise on idle and its starting to drive me mad, a new one from BMW is around £130 so at some point i will change it :)

As for MPG £20 will get me around 90 miles mixes driving. 40-45mpg on the motorway at 65-70mph and around 25mpg town driving.

Hope you get it all sorted!

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Cheers Mark, this thread was turning into the Johnny and Jim show!

Got a fairly long list of things I'd like to do. Im sure the exhaust is blowing. Every time i drive near a wall the reflected sound is awful. Tried putting my hand over the tailpipe to check for leaks, but it just makes its way out under the exhaust tip. Must check properly while im tinkering this weekend.

I have given up looking at the MPG needle. Its too scary.

Noob question time. The computer can have stored codes without illuminating any warning lights right? Wondering if its worth getting them read. Anyone in Portsmouth/ Fareham / South Hampshire got a reader and takes beer tokens?

John

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Haha that's ok mate I'll keep a close eye on this thread n will ad if I can :) (I'm a black cab mechanic so not too bad with cars)

To try and diagnose if you have an exhaust leak get a huge rag like an old bed sheet and put it over the tailpipe while someone's looking for a leak :) a leaking exhaust will effect mpg

As for your car not great on fuel when I got my 318 back in April 2010 I didn't think mine was good either. So I serviced it changing oil with castrol edge 0/30 fully sun, Bosch plugs, new air and fuel filter. This helped but another thing I done was change the pre cat lambda sensor with a genuine Bosch one (about £65 from motor factors). BMW recommend this is changed every 100k. Since then she has def got better!

Also when I had to take my car to a garage to reset my airbag light they told me it picked up a problem with my disa valve so all because there is no light on the dash that doesn't mean the car is running 100% perfect

Hope this info has helped B)

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So my list of work looks like this so far:

Get the codes read. (or buy a code reader) See below for link. Will this work with a 1999 318i?

Clean/Replace Cam Sensor

Clean/Replace CCV

Clean/Replace DISA (optional)

Change oil and filter. Mobil 1 0W-40. Currently £40 for 5L at Halfords.

Clean/Replace MAF

Check exhaust for leaks

Check remaining hoses and replace as necessary.

Clean engine, under car and exhaust of old oil. (from the leaking oil filter housing)

I'd like to make the rocker cover a bit smarter too. Any suggestions welcome.

Not much then!

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item45fe2eff21

Edited by Johnny 5C
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Spent a few hours on the car today:

Get the codes read. (or buy a code reader) See below for link. Will this work with a 1999 318i? Not yet. Hoping Spugnut will come through on this!

Clean/Replace Cam Sensor. Cleaned

Clean/Replace CCV. Done

Clean/Replace DISA (optional). Nothing

Change oil and filter. Mobil 1 0W-40. Currently £40 for 5L at Halfords. Going to get this done at a chain for 47GBP..

Clean/Replace MAF. Cleaned

Check exhaust for leaks. Not yet.

Check remaining hoses and replace as necessary. All OK

Clean engine, under car and exhaust of old oil. (from the leaking oil filter housing). Not yet.

I'd like to make the rocker cover a bit smarter too. Any suggestions welcome. Anyone, just a good clean with de-greaser?

The cleanup didnt make much difference. I got a replacement CCV from euro car parts (39 GBP) and fitted it outside their store in 10 mins. What a difference. The car is back to how it should be. You can hardly hear the engine at idle, and its not bouncing all over the place. Well chuffed.

Johnny

Edited by Johnny 5C
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What is the CCV guys? Is it that back round box on the inlet manifold? I've done a couple things to my 1.9 recently B) I removed the disa valve to inspect the play on the butterfly, it was only a tiny amount but must be enough to rattle loudly when idling :(

Also changed the pipe that runs from the top of the rocker cover to the inlet manifold (the crankcase ventilation one :) )

And as of last week my radiator fan is constantly on even when the engine has just been started when cold, I've been told I need to replace the fan

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Hi Marc. You are correct with the CCV, 2 Allen bolts hold it on. I got mine from ECP. There is also a pipe from the fuel rail to the MAF that runs under the Manifold, givce that a check as mine was split at the MAF end.

Take the Pollen Filter Housing off to give yourself more room. When you were in there did you check the pipe connector at the rear of the engine block as it goes brittle after time and fails causing a coolant leak. Check link- http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=827061&highlight=2000+pipe+connector

On reading other posts re Radiator Fan, changing seems to be the cure. Jim

PS Do you have the M43 or the N42 engine as the above is for the M43.

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Hi Marc. You are correct with the CCV, 2 Allen bolts hold it on. I got mine from ECP. There is also a pipe from the fuel rail to the MAF that runs under the Manifold, givce that a check as mine was split at the MAF end.

Take the Pollen Filter Housing off to give yourself more room. When you were in there did you check the pipe connector at the rear of the engine block as it goes brittle after time and fails causing a coolant leak. Check link- http://forum.e46fana...+pipe+connector

On reading other posts re Radiator Fan, changing seems to be the cure. Jim

PS Do you have the M43 or the N42 engine as the above is for the M43.

Yeah I have the M43 engine fitted to my 318ci, its a June 2001 build so one of the last 1.9's :) Apparently the later 318 2.0 16v engine developed was by Rover, thank god i didnt get that :lol:

When i had the pollen filter housing out i did check the coolant pipe connector on the back of the engine but it was only ever slightly moist and my coolant level in the expansion tank hasnt been going down since i changed the rad and expansion tank so thought i'd leave it :)

While we're talking about the 1.9's has anyone noticed that their MPG has gone down since the cold weather arrived? I used to get about 44mpg on the motorwar in the summer but now i'm getting roughly 35mpg?

Also i dont think the gearing for 5th is that great. If i'm on the motorway doing 70mph in 5th the engine revs are at about 3,300rpm. I dunno if its just me but i think thats quite high?

Its good having a thread on just the 1.9's :)

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Yeah I have the M43 engine fitted to my 318ci, its a June 2001 build so one of the last 1.9's :) Apparently the later 318 2.0 16v engine developed was by Rover, thank god i didnt get that :lol:

When i had the pollen filter housing out i did check the coolant pipe connector on the back of the engine but it was only ever slightly moist and my coolant level in the expansion tank hasnt been going down since i changed the rad and expansion tank so thought i'd leave it :)

While we're talking about the 1.9's has anyone noticed that their MPG has gone down since the cold weather arrived? I used to get about 44mpg on the motorwar in the summer but now i'm getting roughly 35mpg?

Also i dont think the gearing for 5th is that great. If i'm on the motorway doing 70mph in 5th the engine revs are at about 3,300rpm. I dunno if its just me but i think thats quite high?

Its good having a thread on just the 1.9's :)

:)

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Marc,

Agree totally on the 5th. It feels like there should be a 6th. Could make the economy much better. But hey...

My CCV was 39 from euro car parts. It doesn’t come up on their website, but if you give them the part number over the phone from real oem, they can get one. Changing mine cleared up all of my idle issues. I also cleaned the cam sensor, ICV and MAF while i was there. The innermost allen screw on the CCV was a little awkward, but just nip it lose and undo by hand (keeping hold of it). I did mine in 10 mins outside ECP, as i wanted the drive home to see if the idle was better.

I have been toying with emailing the mods to get a specific 318i technical forum (or to split them out by engine?) and I enjoy reading the forums, but not much is actually for the 8v engines. To be honest, though, Jim has most of the answers!

I do wonder why BMW used an 8v engine. But it doesn’t do badly. I am constantly wondering if the next size up 6 cylinder would return a similar MPG.

There is plenty that can be done to the M43TU engine, but I don’t think it will ever be as smooth or as quiet as a 6 pot.

Cheers

John

Edited by Johnny 5C
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Interesting read jonny! At this moment i don't have any problems with my idling but my 1.9's done 106k now so for £39 i should really change it. Do you know how much it was for a genuine BMW CCV?

I've got another problem at the moment, my radiator fan is constantly on when I start the engine. It will even come on even if I start it for the first time in the morning (after about 5 seconds after the engine is started)

So yesterday I went to a BMW breaker yard and tried 2 other fans, another resistor box (the box at the top of the fan) and my problem still persists

I have read on here that the fans are ecu controlled? So maybe I need a full diagnostics test?

The guys at the breaker yard said I need to get an electrician to look over it!

I have unplugged both temp sensors and that hasn't made a difference, also if I put a split pin across the plug it doesn't help. I've checked the wiring to the fan and it all seems in tact. I thought it might be linked to the air con so I removed all 3 fuses and the fans still on.

Can anyone think of anything else I can check? I think for the diagnostics I should take it to BMW cos they will have the best equipment. Can't see that being cheap :lol:

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Marc,

What year is your 318, and what engine is fitted. I'll have a look over the wiring diagrams and see if I can come up with anything. Also, where are you located ? There's plenty of people on here (myself included) that can run a diagnostic.

Ian.

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Hi Ian my 318ci is June 2001 built fitted with a 1.9 8v engine. That would be great if you could have a look for me! :)

I'm based in SE London but travel to Buckinghamshire regularly :) i think my car needs to go a specific BMW/e46 code reader then just a generic one (and around my way there aren't any places with that equipment :( )

I'm struggling to work out what's wrong with it!

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Hi Ian my 318ci is June 2001 built fitted with a 1.9 8v engine. That would be great if you could have a look for me! :)

I'm based in SE London but travel to Buckinghamshire regularly :) i think my car needs to go a specific BMW/e46 code reader then just a generic one (and around my way there aren't any places with that equipment :( )

I'm struggling to work out what's wrong with it!

Hi Marc,

Assuming you have the 1.9 M43 engine running BMS46 engine management, this is a description of how the fan is controlled. I think the last line is probably the important one.

Electric Fan

Vehicles with BMS46 have no viscous fan but are only equipped with an electric fan.

E46:

The electric fan is activated by means of a power output stage directly on the fan motor. The motor control unit activates this power output stage by means of a square-wave signal with duty factors (variable pulse width) between 10 and 90 % thus controlling the various speeds of the electric fan. Pulse duty factors less than 5 % and greater than 95 % do not trigger activation but rather they are used for fault detection purposes. The power output stage features its own positive and ground supply.

The fan speed is influenced by the coolant temperature at the radiator outlet and the pressure in the air conditioning system. The fan speed is reduced as the vehicle speed increases.

The electric fan is driven at maximum speed in the event of a fault in the coolant temperature sensor at the radiator outlet.

Looking at the circuit diagram itself, the temp sender is connected between two pins of the ECU. If the ECU is not happy with the resistance it sees at the sensor (or the wiring between the sensor and ECU is faulty), it will ramp the fan up to full speed. Disconnecting the sensor will have the same effect, as will shorting the two pins together. You would need to put a correct value resistor across the two pins to simulate a good sensor to test it, or simply replace the sensor. I guess it could be a faulty ECU, but I'm willing to bet good money that it's a duff sensor or possibly a wiring fault.

There's lots of people on here with proper BMW diagnostic software, not just the generic ones.

Cheers,

Ian.

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Wow that's some good info there thanks! B) I did unplug the sensor at the bottom of the radiator and put a multi meter across the terminals and there was 2.5 volts so that shows that a live and earth are coming up to the sensor.

Next step is to change it then! Thanks for going out you way to help me, stuff like this makes this forum what it is B)

What's strange is the fact that this only started to happen when I took the windscreen washer bottle out to clean it (I'm not sure if it was straight away after but on the same day I noticed the fan was always on)

The loom runs around that area behind the o/s headlamp so I'll double check the Wiring again

I'll report back when I've investigated further :)

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ian332isport you were right the problem was with the temp sensor on the outlet of the radiator! B)

Got a new one from a bmw specialists around my way for £15 and now the fans come on and go off exactly at the right time :)

Thanks for your help

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Thought I'd resurrect this thread :)

Anyone been busy with their M43 lately?

Mines been running well, I have noticed that the very short rubber fuel pipes that run to a rail are deeply cracked so ordering new ones soon! Anyone done this job?

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Thought I'd resurrect this thread :)

Anyone been busy with their M43 lately?

Mines been running well, I have noticed that the very short rubber fuel pipes that run to a rail are deeply cracked so ordering new ones soon! Anyone done this job?

Hi. Very easy job, take the old ones off and the new ones just slip on no problem. Cheap from the Dealers.

Have you looked at the pipe from the fuel rail going under the manifold to the MAF, if dodgy replace that as well. Jim

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