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Egr Thermostat Opening At 88C And The Dropping

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Morning all

Tried the car again this morning, the Weather was -3 and never got to above 86 it was hovering around 84/85 - Is this normal in cold weather or does it sound like I need to change the main stat as well to see the magical 90 ? albeit I did get the car to 90 yesterday after I fitted the new EGR thermostat but not today and it was the same run as Yesterday with similar speeds. I guess by getting the car to 90 yesterday proves everything works ? or does it. It didn't stop at 90 for long or 88 for that matter (I'm bench marking 90 here by the way) Once it got to 88 / 90 it slowly came back down to 82/85 is that meant to happen or once the engine is hot it should always stop above the 2nd phase opening which happens at 88 - So my question is, bearing in mind I did get to 90 once :-)

1 :- does the main stat need changing?

2 :- Is it normal to get to 90 then go back to 84ish

3 :- Is it normal at -3 to see the above happening?

4 :- What's my next steps? Don't really want to fork out for a main stat if that's not the issue here and do all the work - removing, changing, draining and re-filling for no reason.

Cheers - Richard

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for reference, the main thermostat should open at 88 deg C and the EGR thermostat at 70 deg C, although there will be a tolerance of a couple of degrees either way in that

I'd say yours is running normally in the current sub zero conditions, I wish mine was the same

currently mine is only hitting mid 70's and I am going to change the EGR thermostat first, as I'm told it's the most likely to fail, plus it is the cheapest to buy and the easiest to replace

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just Googled it and it seems you are correct, it is a 2 stage setup for the EGR one, I never knew that :thumbsup:

info here >>> http://www.bmwland.c...hp?f=1&t=118248

what sort of mpg figures are you seeing and does the engine seem to start, idle & drive smoothly?

the coolant temp hitting 90, then dropping and slowly increasing again shows that the main thermostat is working and opening as it should IMO

the drop in temp is when it opens and the radiator comes into play, reducing coolant temps and at -3 deg ambient, I'd say mid 80's was ok

I'd wait until the ambient temp increases to above freezing and see if it gets closer to 90 deg before changing the main thermostat personally

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Your probably right mate I may leave it until the weather get's a little warmer, anyway to answer your questions :

I've only had the car 1 week as my Company car is going back, So I can't really say what MPG I am getting, however since changing the EGR thermo the car seems to have more life in it, Don't know if it's me or not but defo seems better, I dont think you would see a massive improvement is the way it idles until it hits the magical 90 figure - Diesel engines need to be very hot for them to work correctly (so I've been informed) My OBC is stating 48ish on a run in 5th, but slowly drops to 29ish around the town which isn't too bad that's if the info is correct? who knows, To get an accurate figure I'll go back to pen and paper and work out from light to light I guess but hopefully should see a return of 600 miles to the tank at 63 litres if not more which would work out to be 49 MPG if my maths are correct or near too it.

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600 miles to the tank at 63 litres if not more which would work out to be 49 MPG if my maths are correct or near too it.

Not quite - 600 miles out of 63 litres of fuel would be about 43 mpg mate not 49.

Assuming 4.55 litres to the gallon.

I recently changed both my stats. First the EGR which helped but then had to do the main as well. The temp never really goes below 88 once its warmed up, even in the sub zero crappy weather we had a while back. if you are dropping lower than the mid 80's, you need a new main stat. Doesn't really matter how cold it is, as the stat will close if the temp gets below 88 which will heat the water back up till the stat opens again, and will keep doing this to maintain the temp.

My MPG increased from about 43 to the high 40's after I did the main stat, that small rise in running temp makes a happier engine. The stat isn't expensive from BMW, about £46 I think. Don't get a cheap Eurocar parts one. I did, ended up changing it twice before buying a BMW one to sort it.

Just my tuppence worth from my recent experience, hope this helps! :)

Edited by Silver Streek
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Question to those who may know, I recently had a remap done and the guy informed me that my egr was already deleted from ecu, so would changing the thermostat do anything ? I'm running at 68 degrees so want to change the both thermostats but if egr one isn't doing anything i could save some cash :)

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You probably still have the EGR pipework there, it would be a ball ache to re-route the water pipework from the EGR cooler. Usually when you do the EGR delete you take off the EGR valve and replace it with a metal tube that has a blind pipe that the EGR pipework can fasten to.As the pipe it fastens to is blind this blocks the pipe up running from the manifold. If that makes sense????

Unless the guy means he just deleted the function of the EGR from the ECU, so its still there but isnt working???

In any case have a look to see if there is any pipework running from the manifold to the EGR area of the intake manifold. If the pipe is there, it iwill be metal and about 1 inch diameter and will run in front of the main stat housing

Edited by Silver Streek
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You probably still have the EGR pipework there, it would be a ball ache to re-route the water pipework from the EGR cooler. Usually when you do the EGR delete you take off the EGR valve and replace it with a metal tube that has a blind pipe that the EGR pipework can fasten to.As the pipe it fastens to is blind this blocks the pipe up running from the manifold. If that makes sense????

Unless the guy means he just deleted the function of the EGR from the ECU, so its still there but isnt working???

In any case have a look to see if there is any pipework running from the manifold to the EGR area of the intake manifold. If the pipe is there, it iwill be metal and about 1 inch diameter and will run in front of the main stat housing

Yes it does make sense, My EGR isn't blanked off yet, but will be soon. But was told by the guy who did the remap that it had been turned off in ecu, and as i still only running at 68 degrees i wanted to know if changing the EGR valve thermostat would help with it been turned off so to say ? hope I've explained what i mean clearly

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You probably still have the EGR pipework there, it would be a ball ache to re-route the water pipework from the EGR cooler. Usually when you do the EGR delete you take off the EGR valve and replace it with a metal tube that has a blind pipe that the EGR pipework can fasten to.As the pipe it fastens to is blind this blocks the pipe up running from the manifold. If that makes sense????

Unless the guy means he just deleted the function of the EGR from the ECU, so its still there but isnt working???

In any case have a look to see if there is any pipework running from the manifold to the EGR area of the intake manifold. If the pipe is there, it iwill be metal and about 1 inch diameter and will run in front of the main stat housing

Yes it does make sense, My EGR isn't blanked off yet, but will be soon. But was told by the guy who did the remap that it had been turned off in ecu, and as i still only running at 68 degrees i wanted to know if changing the EGR valve thermostat would help with it been turned off so to say ? hope I've explained what i mean clearly

O-Ring to go with it is 11532248435. You 'could' reuse the old one but I wouldn't recommend it. Do you know when the main thermostat was last replaced?

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Ive just been told, "It is in effect still a functioning part but unused as the ecu does not look for its data so don't worry about it "

So will just change water pump thermostat to start with.

The EGR thermostat is still part of the cooling system though. For the price of the part I would just do them both at the same time.

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