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The_Judge_

EGR Pipework Removal DIY - EGR Delete

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Yeah already got a blank fitted to the inlet. Mine takes some time to get warm so it'll be done at the same time as thermostat and pump as previous owner either decided saving receipts wasn't necessary or didn't replace a thing. But knowing what I do about what he has touched on the car, it's probably the latter.

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Nice write up.

Does the engine warm up any different than before? Quicker maybe?

Hi, thanks :)

It generally doesn't affect warm up so much, its more about keeping the engine cleaner and smoother by eliminating the waste gas recirculation and losing one extra thermostat you don't need. However, that being said, I posted a link in the first post which was my inspiration for some of the steps in this job. If you follow that link, then that really is a good guide for improving warm up times and mpg :)http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f91/e46-330d-thermostat-ac-water-pump-drive-belt-replace

Thanks. Yes I already cleaned the egr and disabled it when I got the car.

The reason I ask is that with the miles I do I have had two egr stat failures since I've had the car and wondered if it warmed up normally or quicker.

think that the egr stat is not working quite as efficiently again so would much rather junk it than keep changing it as the egr is disabled anyway.

I might as well get the delete pipe as well as I had one on my old e39 and it made a subtle difference and was worth having.

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hello

ive got the 18mm inside diameter silicon pipe end caps.

Do you just slip these over your coolant hose and tighten a jubilee clip over?

A bit worried if the coolant system runs about 1 bar pressure (15 psi) the bung might pop off or as there isnt a solid internal for the hose to "grip" wouldnt the hose and bung not hold tight enough..

sorry if ive missed something

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My original hoses were held on with just a jubilee clip, when my mechanic took them off there is a small ridge on the inside to help grip the hose.

I had this mod done last week and so far so good checked it everyday for leaks and the bung hasn't moved and there are no leaks, just make sure your bungs are between 16-18mm as there not always 100%. Due to the manufacturing process.

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As above, I just used the silicon bungs and jubilee clips, no leak as of yet :)

In fact, I remember when doing the job that simply placing one of the bungs in place held back the coolant giving me time to side the jubilee clip over it and tighten it.

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Look good, let us know if you get the right ones!

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Its the Inside Bore, sorry not sure if the guide made it clear but the Internal Diameter or inside bore should be 17-18 mm any bigger and the bung will not fit properly and be too big.

I orderered mine from Auto Silicon Hoses who I've used before for other things. Since fitting these I've now done over 1k miles with no issues. To test it wasn't leaking the mechanic got me to drive around the block for 10 mins with the car at temperature so it was under full coolant pressure and drive it hard on boost to try and make it leak. Since doing this I've had no leaks or adverse effects, car gets to temp quicker due to the egr stat being fubared and highlighted that my main stat is getting lazy as its taking 6 miles to get to temp so will need replacing in the next few months.

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You may have an electric fan infront and behind the radiator but these do not need to be removed they are not in the way. The 320d has sooo much room in front of the engine when you remove the covers you will see what i mean, the hardest bit is pulling the hoses off the pipes.

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Just incase anyone is thinking of doing this great mod I accidentally purchased 2 egr blanks in my ebay basket so if anyone is after one I can sell you my spare one for £11.99 minus the delivery cost to make it more appealing! You will also get it delivered a lot sooner obviously as the tafmet one comes from Poland and I'm in uk!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181216025801?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

*** SOLD ***

Edited by mikeyh592
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Had all the bits collected so I attempted it last night using this guide.

Only difference on mine (later 204bhp engine) was my boost pipe to EGR connection is a hard plastic pipe, which doesn't fit the EGR bypass Pipe (£40 ebay jobbie). Now awaiting silicone replacement boost pipe before I can go further

Big Thank You to Mr Suf, this guide was spot on !

Edited by Aamir
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Glad you found it useful, I can't take all the credit though as referenced on the first page :) It's good to hear of the differences on your engine too.

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Would just like to add some readings I got....

EGR

Coolant: 89'c :D

Inlet: 50'c :(

EGR removed

Coolant: 81'c :( (may need to connect the two coolant oulets together)

Inlet: 25'c :D

Readings taken in exactly same place, with same ambient conditions & warm up method used for both.

Edited by Aamir
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does it really need to or want to run cooler or am i missing the label

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does it really need to or want to run cooler or am i missing the label

The intercooler cools the air down so why would you then want hot air heating it back up......

I'm referring to inlet temps rather than coolant temps.

Edited by CharlE46
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