Richy_Boy Posted September 5, 2009 Report Share Posted September 5, 2009 Ok, some pictures to help anyone else out on the rears: Pull covering back from side of boot, pull away rubber (brittle!) sound proofing to reveal two nuts - undo. Undo bolt at bottom of shock (use plenty of WD40): ..and get ready to catch the shock as it'll drop out the car. To remove the spring, get a mate/girlfriend to stand on the disc hub and put plenty of weight on it. With a decent tug, the spring will pop out, bringing with it the top and bottom spring pads. Swap rubber pads onto new springs and clean the suspension arm face and rubbers with a brush a WD40. Fitting is in reverse, although you may want to use a jack to hold the shock in the car if you're on your own whilst you tighten the two top nuts again. Once the top nuts are tightened, thenuse the jack to life the shock until the holes line up and with a dab of copper slip, refit the bolt. If you have the funds, I'd recommend you replace the strut top mounts at the front and back, it's made my steering a touch lighter, but haven't had a decent drive yet. Piccy of rear old and new top mounts. You should end up with something like this, I'm expecting it to settle more once I've driven it for a week or so. Have fun! Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted September 5, 2009 Report Share Posted September 5, 2009 Rich, did you use the cup from the old shock mount? As on the pic. Or did the shocks come with new ones? Those springs are actual Alpina ones then! You will get a bit for them if you sell them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richy_Boy Posted September 5, 2009 Report Share Posted September 5, 2009 Assuming the cup is the bent washer that sits on top of the rear top mount, yeah it was in perfect condition so I reused it. The springs are Eibach made to Alpina spec, as are the dampers. i.e. I'm planning to mothball the suspension for when I come to sell the car, some enthusiast will 'demand' the original setup is installed. A scrap yard recently put the springs and shocks up for sale for £800!? Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted September 5, 2009 Report Share Posted September 5, 2009 Yeah well done, sorry so many people leave the cup washer out, then find their top mounts have gone Was a nice way of checking you used them I thought the original Alpina would be worth a bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richy_Boy Posted September 5, 2009 Report Share Posted September 5, 2009 Well, that's why I didn't replace with Alpina gear, new it costs something like £2000 for the dampers and springs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted September 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2009 Just got back from being away and just noticed this! Nice work on the FSDs and Eibach's Rich! All new suspension must feel fresh; what a pleasure to drive it must be. Absolutely love your car mate - stunning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miggy Posted September 15, 2009 Report Share Posted September 15, 2009 If I want to lower my e46. All I need is to buy lowering springs right? Not really familiar with lowering yet. So I don't need to change the shocks? What would best suit my 2.0L 318i? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richy_Boy Posted September 15, 2009 Report Share Posted September 15, 2009 Absolutely love your car mate - stunning. Thanks I still haven't had a decent drive in it as it's been at a BMW bodyshop for over a weke now Collecting tomorrow afternoon though - yippee! Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted September 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 Aww man, I'd be itching for her back! Seriously though Rich, should you ever decide to sell in the future, I'd jump at the chance (If you hadn't guessed, I'm suggesting you come to me first here ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richy_Boy Posted September 16, 2009 Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 I'll keep that in mind... STILL not got the car back... tomorrow the body shop tell me now.. tomorrow.. If I want to lower my e46. All I need is to buy lowering springs right? Not really familiar with lowering yet. So I don't need to change the shocks? What would best suit my 2.0L 318i? Thanks! Yup, just springs, unless you want to freshen things up a touch... As for springs, there are quite a few different brands / types. I'd recommend Eibach PROs (like I have) if you don't want a big drop and keep decent comfort, Eibach Sportlines if you want a decent drop (like Keith has), yet still want an OK ride. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miggy Posted September 17, 2009 Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 Yup, just springs, unless you want to freshen things up a touch... As for springs, there are quite a few different brands / types. I'd recommend Eibach PROs (like I have) if you don't want a big drop and keep decent comfort, Eibach Sportlines if you want a decent drop (like Keith has), yet still want an OK ride. Rich Thanks! This really helps... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SH0X Posted February 25, 2010 Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 How would you be able to diagnose a bent front shock? Would you need to take it off to inspect? Thanks for the guide, its givent me abit more of an insight on the suspension, I might have to use it some day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted February 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 How would you be able to diagnose a bent front shock? Would you need to take it off to inspect? Pretty much, yes. You would only be able to see a really badly damaged shock without removing it first, but it could look OK and still be bent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnboy07 Posted March 11, 2010 Report Share Posted March 11, 2010 spot on write up. used this last week to do mine and was well handy to have to hand. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted March 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2010 spot on write up. used this last week to do mine and was well handy to have to hand. thanks No worries mate, glad you found it useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panzer007 Posted April 17, 2010 Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 Hi Keith, I'm half done on a complete upgrade, rears Eibach Pro's, Zero Sixty discs and EBC pads with Goodridge lines fitted. Calipers were de-rusted, painted and dried overnight, re-assembled, system bled and handbrake adjusted. Arches are as clean as the ones in the Detailing write up and it looks mint.....until I started the front! The drop link ball joint 16mm nut is visible but on the rear of mine is a plastic cap 'affair', presumably this pops off with a screwdriver and then access to the 16mm bolt head is revealed? Sorry if sounds a bone question but other than finding a sheared blead nipple on the OSF caliper I'm trying to minimise any more disasters waiting for me in the hurt locker. I think the caliper might be a lost cause and E Bay will be getting a visit. Thanks for the write up, saved me a huge amount of questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--mastermind-- Posted April 17, 2010 Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 Nice write up, will have to give this a go as iv lowerd my previous car by myself as the tools are relativly cheep + some used tim and time again for other bit n bobs only thing that dosnt is clamps but comes in handy when you have a mate who bought a lowerd car but couldnt insure it as being lowerd so needed a change These beemers have a similar setup to the megane i had, but this time no driveshafts to worry about popping out and leaking oil all over the drive lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panzer007 Posted April 18, 2010 Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 I worked out the drop link bolt and the strut is out........Bonus! Other side however is a case of 'lets shear a bolt for a laugh just to p**s you off a bit more' style. Why does it have to be this way? Cannot the angels of DIY occassionally shine on the unfortunate! Out with the drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted April 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 I worked out the drop link bolt and the strut is out........Bonus! Other side however is a case of 'lets shear a bolt for a laugh just to p**s you off a bit more' style. Why does it have to be this way? Cannot the angels of DIY occassionally shine on the unfortunate! Out with the drill. It's a mental design. The E36 doesn't have a collar - the kingpin just bolts the bottom of the shock. Much better design IMO - the number of people who have bolts shear is unreal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panzer007 Posted April 18, 2010 Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 Ok, drilling is not an option, just can't seem to get anywhere. Decided to drop the whole carrier/hub assembly...................sadly these don't want to budge either! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted April 18, 2010 Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 It's a mental design. The E36 doesn't have a collar - the kingpin just bolts the bottom of the shock. Much better design IMO - the number of people who have bolts shear is unreal. Yeah E36 design is better, well E46 design is good, bar the rusty bolts And looky at the new sig!!! Ok, drilling is not an option, just can't seem to get anywhere. Decided to drop the whole carrier/hub assembly...................sadly these don't want to budge either! Why cant you drill it out? I did, takes ages though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panzer007 Posted April 18, 2010 Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 Hi Chris, A couple of things didn't go to plan today which meant dropping the strut out was a real s**t. Basically, I tried drilling but could only get in about 10mm before the drill bits were not doing anything, I think newer bits with more bite will solve the problem. I then opted to drop the hub carrier assembly by releasing the ball joints which was also a non-starter after an hour or so of smacking the wishbone to 'crack' the lock. Option 3 was the easiest, use a junior hack saw and cut the bolt at all accessible areas. Once completed I was able to pry open the collar a bit more and get free movement on the strut. I then raised the car a few more inches on the trolley and bingo...out it came. When I drill the bolt out I am not using that crap design again but put through a clean shafted bolt through which will have thread at one end to accept a decent locknut. After all, once fitted it's not going anywhere with the weight of the car on it. I then found that BOTH disc's are going to be a pain to take off as the 6mm allen key securing bolt which holds the disc's to the carriers are solid! Both holes have started to round off so I'll be on the lookout for a welding torch and pop some sockets on to crack them off. Other than that............................ Apolgies for quality of phone images Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panzer007 Posted April 20, 2010 Report Share Posted April 20, 2010 Got my hands on some Cobalt drill bits today..........absolutely no mercy given when drilling out stubborn bolts. Jobs a good 'un, hope to get it all back together with pictures by the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted April 20, 2010 Report Share Posted April 20, 2010 Got my hands on some Cobalt drill bits today..........absolutely no mercy given when drilling out stubborn bolts. Jobs a good 'un, hope to get it all back together with pictures by the weekend. Yeah i used titanium tipped bits, and they were ok ish but need a bit more. Used a dremmel to cut through most of the bolt and then drilled out the rest. Nightmare job, but as you i now use bolts with two nuts each side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panzer007 Posted April 24, 2010 Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 I thought this day would never come, Anyway, I got the car put back together last night and found that the battery was flat... I borrowed a quick charging unit from a mate this morning and all the pain went away. As no warning lights came on indicating broken or damaged cables, I then went and bedded the brakes in. After rinsing off the Icelandic Volcano dust that gathered over the 2 weeks the car has been on axle stands, I took some photo's with the kit all on. I should have taken some with the build in progress but after spending hours getting covered in brake dust, rust and general s***e over the last 2 weeks, I couldn't be arsed. I put Zero Sixty discs on with EBC black (standard) pads and Goodridge Steel lines front and rear which came in at £399. As this thread was started in relation to fitting Eibach springs by Keith, the Pro kit at £136 was a good choice for me and it looks fine. In hindsight, if I had taken a little more care, perhaps the collar bolt might not have sheared but being 'airgunned' on by a garage and rusting badly I doubt it very much. That put the whole timeline for the project way off track, hence two weeks. As Chris mentioned, my struts are now secured using a quality bolt with a locknut, never again will I suffer the pain of one of those shearing. Being covered in crap, working till 'stupid o'clock' most nights and generally wanting to forget the whole thing..............I'm glad I did it, thanks for the write up Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
