TokaM Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 Hi guys, bit of help here needed, today I've removed the swirl flaps, removal wasn't too difficult. Whilst I was at it I replaced the vacuum hoses as well. Now the problem is - the car won't start, it tries to but just doesn't kick in. I have checked all cables that I unplugged - they are all connected. I have checked the power cables they are secured back on I have plugged it into diagnotices (DIS) - it is stating it can't access the DDE and there is lack of voltage. Any suggestions guys? I've removed the inlet manifold again to check all wires and none seem out of place. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeoffMM Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 Has to be a connector not plugged back in or you have dropped something into the intake system (Very Bad) although you prob would of heard it. Any Engine management lights>? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TokaM Posted August 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 Has to be a connector not plugged back in or you have dropped something into the intake system (Very Bad) although you prob would of heard it. Any Engine management lights>? Thanks for the quick response Geoff, nothing has been dropped in. No EML other than my DSC light has come on and is throwing a fault, but i put that down to the lack of volts that DIS was reporting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nutz Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 Sounds like your a lot more clued up than me but have you tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TokaM Posted August 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 Sounds like your a lot more clued up than me but have you tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it? at the first part, although i doubt it, I just give anything a go after plenty of reading/nosying. I'll give it a go, cheers for the suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TokaM Posted August 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 Worked a treat Nutz, cheers for that. However I caused myself more issues, I dropped a spanner at the end and created a short circuit on the battery. As a result I think i have fried my ecu, or part of it. The car turns on and runs, however the brake pedal is stiff - no brakes - no warning lights have come on. When connected up to diagnostics, the car is no longer recognised. Think I spy an expensive bill coming my way haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob- Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 Have you connected the vacuum pipe up correctly? The one that goes over the engine bay to the master cylinder. Worth checking? You could have simply blown a fuse mate, that's what they're there for after all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TokaM Posted August 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 I wasn't sure what that pipe was until I was doing the small vacuum pipes so I didn't disconnect it. Although its proabably worth a check incase I have accidently loosened it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TokaM Posted August 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 OK, so I've now checked the vacuum hose suggested by Rob (the one over the engine bay to the master cylinder, this is fully intact. I also checked the hoses I replaced and these are still connected To add to it, the battery is now low on juice, wont start the engine, either because its damaged form the short circuit or because I drained it whilst having it connected up on the diagnostics this morning. Think its time for me to put it in to an indie, well get it picked up and taken to one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TokaM Posted August 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 Rob - looks like I didn't check properly, take a look at the pic below. The vacuum pipe had been melted through (metal included) by the exhaust pipe that runs to the EGR valve. It looks like it had almost "welded" them together. Me removing the intake manifold and various other bits had broken it free. Think I've possibly had a lucky escape by breaking it free when de-flapping. I put a bit of electrical tape over the hole to do a test of the pedal, it felt almost like it should do. Although I didn't take it for a drive as it was only tape and didn't fancy it coming off and losing my brakes. Could also be the reason for lack of power with the turbo.........I'll find out soon. Just awaiting a price from bmminiparts and will be ordering from them :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nutz Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 Cripes. Sounds like you've been very unlucky so far Marc. Hope you get her going again, posting your experiences will help others I have no doubt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TokaM Posted August 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 Cripes. Sounds like you've been very unlucky so far Marc. Hope you get her going again, posting your experiences will help others I have no doubt Yeah I've had a few problems, although the lack of power and the brakes are probably linked as the turbo vacuum hose connects to this vacuum line. Hopefully it will help others as you have said, surprised me that the pipe was there/so close if it can be melted through like that. Ah well it'll be rectified in a few days once I get the price Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 Just seen this thread today - Bloody hell mate! Sounds like a right mare! You going to fit an EGR bypass while you're at it? Get the battery charged and tested to be sure its okay.. I think by creating the short the worst it 'should' do is blow a fuse before it fries the ECU. If something isn't working after all this check your fuses. Good luck mate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TokaM Posted August 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 Cheers momo, yeah a self inflicted mare to a degree I thought about the EGR bypass, but for now I think i'll get it running properly and then maybe come back to it. It only takes about 10 minutes to have the EGR fully removed now. I've charged the battery up and it seems to be holding its charge. The engine starts well too so thats a good thing. I've checked the fuses in the glove box, and the ones in the electrical unit behind the passenger front suspension turret, all are fine. Are there any others to check? Thought about the relays, but unsure how to check if these are damaged in any way. I'm going to replace the battery for peace of mind as well. Plan was to get it to an indie, but can't drive it due to the brakes so will be after the weekend before I put it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TokaM Posted August 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 Just gave the brakes a proper test with the hole taped up (stayed on my drive though for safety) and the brakes are fully functioning. Came back inside, email received from BMminiparts comes in around £22 so im happy. Part ordered along with my snapped aircon pipe, overall cost circa 150 including my choice of delivery. roll on the weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob- Posted September 5, 2010 Report Share Posted September 5, 2010 Just gave the brakes a proper test with the hole taped up (stayed on my drive though for safety) and the brakes are fully functioning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
