staddly Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 OK, so following on from cleaning the EGR Valve, this is what I did next. Please do not attempt this next stage if you are in any way clumsy, accident prone or just always old unlucky! This is based on my own personal experience and I accept no responsibility for yours To recap, remove the engine covers by releasing the front section securing pins (plastic ones above the grill) and then the 5 reatining allen key bolts on the top. (Pic 0). Also unclip the rubber grommets which retain the wiring looms against the cover. We have removed the EGR valve by unscrewing the retaining clips sucuring the 2 hoses to the EGR (Pic 1), disconnecting the vacum pipe and undoing the 4 allen head reating bolts. Al was given a good clean with Wynns EGR3 cleaner (or any othe rcleaner yas you prefer). Pic 0 Pic 1 The next stage is to remove the pollen filter housing and tray - this is done by removing the rubber bonnet sealing strip, releasing the 3 sprung clips holding the cover on the pollen filter and removing the element. The 4 Torx srews can then be romoved (Pic 1) and the tray slid forward and out. The 2 plastic pins holding the fuse box panel on need to be removed - on is shown in Pic 2, the other attaches to the bulkhead panel. The bulkead panel behind the engine then needs to be removed. This is done by undoing the 2 Torx screws (they are retained on the panel) and easing the panel away. NOTE this step has to be done before you attempt to remove the rear section of the engine cover. Once the rear panel is removed, the 3 allean key bolts can be removed from the rear engine cover panel and it can be removed. The whole top of the engine cis now exposed. Now, onto the manifold - Undo the 2 torx screws securing the inkector plug loom and unclip the loom form the top of the manifold, this can then be moved away. I then undid the 8 bolts on top of the manifold and the 5 nuts scuring it down the center. BE CAREFUL! the 8 bolts are retained with the manifold but the 5 nts are loose once removed and can fall down into the engine - YOU HAVE BEN WARNED! Befor attempting to remove the manifold completely, just loosen so access to the 3 vacum hoses and 3 electrical connectors (Pic 2) is slightly easier. No need to remove the blac/yellow hose as this will come off with the manifold. Pic 2 The bolt securing the dip stick bracket also needs to be removed and the wiring loom grommets released. The manifold can now be GENTLY pulled upwards, ensuing that the top 8 bolts have not caought on the threads and that the rubber seals come away and do not fall into the engine. I found that the vacum underneath the manifold was fould by one of the coolant pipes on the engine so it had to be pulled quite hard and eased round until it cleared this - it felt like something was still connected but it wasn't. Ok, manifold off, but before i cleaned the flaps, I checked the Crank Case Breather (pic 3) Pic 3 And found I had the updated vortex type breather So, to the flaps! A first look saw a fair deposit of crud The flaps were removed from the manifold by disconnecting the rail fronm the clips at the base of the flaps and undoing the Torx retaing screws. The flaps can then be withdrawn from th manifold. I must a dmit, I was expecting worse at 60,000 miles but they wer checked and cleaned anyway. All spindles looked in good order nad the rivets holding theflaps on were sound. I was confident to re-fit them. It is a this point you can either carry out the 'self tappins screw' mod or fit purpose made blanking plates if you find anything untoward or damaged, or just want to for peace of mind. After a good clean we had these ready for re-fitting In the true spiirit of Mr Haynes - re-fitting is the reverse of removal! The more eagle eyed amongyou may have noticed a rogue wiring loom lurking on top of the engine (marked with ? on Pic 2) You will not have this, this is a little treat I fitted at the time to tide me over before my remap (now I know my internals are all OK ) Tuning box aquired form a kind chap on another forum for a reasonable sum! Hope that helps a few and remember if it won't budge, don't force it, step back and have a cuppa and try again later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///Marty Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 Stage 2 approved! Excellent DIY skillz again Si, I'm sure all the derv owners will really appreciate the amount of detail you have gone into and the clearly labelled diagrams. Top work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duffman Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 nice one mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///Marty Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 LOL.. I know its a good DIY Mark but there is no need to post nice one three times! Deleted a couple for you mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty Tool Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 nice diy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 Very good DIY dude! Did you try to clean the inside of the manifold at all or did you mainly concentrate on the flaps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
staddly Posted October 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 Very good DIY dude! Did you try to clean the inside of the manifold at all or did you mainly concentrate on the flaps? No, just concentrated on the flaps. TBH with you I think you could do more harm than good trying to clean the inside as it seemed to me that all you could effectively do is dislodge a load of crap that would then be sucked through when you start her up again. I suppose I could have soaked in for hours in a bath of cleaner and scrubbed it with pipe brushes but there was some seriously baked on crap inside and by the time I had done the flaps, I'd had enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Streek Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 Staddly, great DIY, really well presented!!!! But I have to ask the question. while you had the manifold off, why didnt you future proof it by removing the flaps, at least you would have piece of mind they arnt going to lunch your engine!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
staddly Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 Staddly, great DIY, really well presented!!!! But I have to ask the question. while you had the manifold off, why didnt you future proof it by removing the flaps, at least you would have piece of mind they arnt going to lunch your engine!!!!! Couple of reasons - 1) The car is still under BMW extended warranty so I wanted to leave them in-situ should I have any mechanical problems where it could be argued that me removing the flaps altogether was a contibutory factor and 2) They were in sound condition with no sign of movement in the spindles or the flap rivets. If the the car was not under warranty I would have removed them, and I still will should I ever choose not to extend it again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Streek Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 Ahh right didnt realise you were still under warranty. Your quite right I wouldnt touch them with a barge pole if I had a warranty. Infact I might be hoping they would lunch the engine so I could get a nice shiny new one for free!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob- Posted October 9, 2009 Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 Nice work! If i had a warranty id be loosening them so they did get sucked in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karl3 Posted November 1, 2009 Report Share Posted November 1, 2009 well but together thread pal. mmmmm im new to the diesel world. as some of you no now ive just bought a 330d m sport 204 ect.. it now done 75k. so im guessing i need to do this. swill thingy mi bob lol.... after a little search i now understand they can cause seriouse engine damage if break. if i remove these completly will the car still run as normal??? or what issuse will i need to come over.. thanks karl.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesy Boy ACS3d Posted November 1, 2009 Report Share Posted November 1, 2009 See link for swirl flap blanks, info & issues. http://www.pmwltd.co.uk/swirl_flaps.pdf http://www.pmwltd.co.uk/?page_id=155 Got mine from him, really knows what he is talking about. Can highly reccomend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karl3 Posted November 1, 2009 Report Share Posted November 1, 2009 See link for swirl flap blanks, info & issues. http://www.pmwltd.co.uk/swirl_flaps.pdf http://www.pmwltd.co.uk/?page_id=155 Got mine from him, really knows what he is talking about. Can highly reccomend. wow that great thanks.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
staddly Posted November 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2009 wow that great thanks.... Check your build date - 2004 may have the updated manifold with slightly thicker spindeles Of course, you can still remove them for extra piece of mind though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan 24v Posted February 26, 2010 Report Share Posted February 26, 2010 Just to note, the flaps dont necessarily have to look worn, as invariably all that is passing them is air, so they shouldnt wear anyway. Its the fasteners which attch the flap to the spindle which are the suspect component and can work loose. Have a look at this link and it shows it well> http://www.pmwltd.co.uk/swirl_flaps.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apples24 Posted March 20, 2010 Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 i done the same but i cut off the flaps, ran a scew through the hole and dobbed it with sealer, im a recovery driver and i have picked up a few before with flap failure also just a note when your l;ifting and fitting the manifold watch for the orange rubber washers on the bolt holes, they could fall down the inlet !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mcfly Posted May 10, 2010 Report Share Posted May 10, 2010 At the risk of looking like an idiot.. Does the early M57D30 engine have swirl flaps? Mine is the 2001 330d facelift model but with 5 speed manual gearbag! I read the pmw PDF file and judging by the table on page 1 it is only the TU engine that's affected, can anyone confirm?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coop Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 excellent how2 guide, cheers! i have just followed this guide, removed the swirl flaps, and fitted the blanking plugs from PMW. did it all on my driveway with no problems, saved me a fair bit of dollar in garage fees i reckon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuncanR Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Hi everyone, newbie to E46zone here - could do with some help! Excellent DIY guide, but I'm a little stuck with finally removing the inlet manifold - I'm used to working on cars and bikes, but this has got me scratching my head: Everything is unbolted and loose, the two rear electrical connectors are removed, and the 3 vac pipes are off, but I cant figure out how to unclip the electrical connector under the front left side (near side) and I don't want to force it. Also it seems like the manifold, although loose, is still connected somehow on the left side in the centre - more than just the electrical connector - is there another bolt or clip I might have missed? Swirl flap plugs waiting to be installed, and I'm seriously thinking of blanking off/eliminating the EGR - my car has done 67k miles and there's about 7-8mm of hard carbonised muck in the valve & inlet manifold. Thanks guys, car out of action until I can get this fixed! DuncanR - 320Cd 2004 150bhp engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz T Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Your braver than me mate i darent try this myself cuz i just no somthin will go pear shaped.welcome to the site these guys will answer anythin u need to know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevcon Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Got my so called professional brother to do mine Wednesday. Insisted on doing it on mum & dads driveway (they liv on a lovely steep hill). Undid all the inlet manifold bolts and found it wouldn't come off. Pointed out the dipstick bolt and got told "don't tell me how to do my job, Im the professional here" Gave it another tug and then submitted to undoing the dipstick. Little did we know that the tug had pulled the dipstick clean out of the engine. OPPS! Nor did we see in the dark, the river of oil. Running down the drive and pass the next four houses. OPPS!! Inlet manifold off and guess what. The previous owner had already removed the flaps and replaced them. with bolts in the shaft holes. Anyway after 2 hours of scrubbing with cidic bang and lots of water, it all looked good. Well, in the dark it did. The moral of this story is never trust a professional, especially when they're your brother Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leomurray Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Hi all, I'm new to the BMW world, but have been tinkering with cars for years. My question is... Is there anything wrong with just removing the flaps from their spindles, and refitting the swirl flap body (minus the flappy bits)? thus saving a few quid by not having to buy the blanking plates. As far as i can tell, there will be no harm, leaving the whole system in place, but with no flaps. When they're actuated the flap shaft will still rotate, but obviously wont be doing anything. The only down side i can think of is the the slight disruption to the air flow over the shaft, but this is still an improvement in flow over the shaft with flap attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Hi Leo, welcome! I've not heard of anyone trying the method you suggested.. I guess that way there's still always the possibility of the spindle working its way loose.. The blanking plates are only approx £10 each from here:- Linky Another way of de-flapping which has been tried and tested is to remove the spindle and the flaps altogether - then fitting a screw in the hole thats left but using some kind of heat resistant screw lock glue stuff to make sure the screw itself doesn't come loose. Tbh those who have tried this i've not really heard of any problems after.. If you're getting the manifold off though i'd thoroughly recommend getting the blanking plates and being done with it. That way you know 100% there's no chance of anything coming loose.. Either way, good luck and keep us posted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_88 Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 my swirl flaps dont look like those pictured above, mine are an orange colour and feel like plastic and have small rubber fins on each end, is that bmw done when they "upgraded" the swirl flaps when they noticed the old designs failed? im still removing them and putting blanking plates in but just found it weird as i was expecting metal flaps and mine arent and are in a housing where as the ones pictured above arent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
