Antoin
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Posts posted by Antoin
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Thanks pete I might just split, clean and rebuild both suspension struts while im working at it anyway. Ive a very good spring compressor so splitting the strut shouldn't take long.
Ive had the brakes apart in the last week or so due to a sticky caliper so they are fine.
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Exactly as you describe Sonar Daddy. Its an intermittent click/ crack most felt on a roundabout turning right while the suspension is under load (partly why I thought top mount bearings). I suppose the subframe being under extra load on cornering would cause this sound as well.
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What is your thinking behind that suggestion?
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Adding to my list of issues with my 330d ive another complaint.
I seem to be getting a "crack" sound when turning from the front passenger side.
Could this be a knackered top mount bearing? Is it common?
Thanks,
Anton
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Frig me ive a lot to learn about these cars!
Ive never heard of vacuum controlled engine mounts in my life before lol
The fact that those vacuum pipes have been left hanging and plugged would indicate someone else has been there before and replaced the vacuum ones for standards.
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Why would engine mounts need a vacuum supply?
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I decided on 225/40 all round on mine.
Cheaper to do and I certainly haven't noticed much difference looks wise.
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Ok, so you'll have the vacuum controlled turbo. The canes can stick it it's more likely a control issue rather than sticky vanes. Check all the vac pipes & replace / upgrade to silicon where necessary. As BB has said, try it with the MAF disconnected too. Try swapping the EGR & turbo pressure converters round. These are all cheap/free things to try but you need to sort the intercooler then get it on BMW specific diagnostics software (INPA or DIS).
Thanks bungers.
My bmcables lead arrived so getting it checked shouldnt be a,problem.
Il check the rest of those things as well.
Incidentally there are 2 vac hoses leading to either front wheel well that have been plugged with screws. Amy idea where/ what they should have been fitted to?
Sent from my MT15i using Tapatalk 2
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Its a 2002 so the 184bhp engine...M57?
Do the vanes on the VNT get sticky causing the overboosting?
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Can you give me a bit more info bungers?
Is it the actuator on the turbo or a mapping issue?
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After further reading could this be a guibo issue?
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I seem to be getting a "pulsing" sensation under hard acceleration in my 330d.
It feels like im accelerating and letting off the throttle slightly, constantly.
Possible causes?
I think I have an intercooler leak, would this possibly have any effect? ie boost leak
Thanks,
Anton
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My setup is;
SIP 50litre 2.5hp and I can run a Chicago pneumatic airgun.
It has removed stubborn wheel nuts/ studs no problems.
I did have to upgrade the airline to allow the gun to work to its full potential as the standard airline and regulator are just too small to provide the gun with enough flow.
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Cheers CharlE46 - is this setup basically a one stop shop for everything il need? (Excluding a laptop)
What windows version would I need on a laptop to allow this to run? I have Windows Vista on my laptop currently but I may buy a cheap laptop for diagnostics only.
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Any links to the all in one pack?
Also will it depend on year which cable I need to get?
Thanks for the help
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Firstly apologies as I am sure there have been many various threads on INPA/ diagnostics but I just haven't been able to find a definitive list of what is required to get started as a beginner.
I have a 2002 330d which, after further reading, is unlikely to be compatible with the ELM32 I have ordered, using the TorquePro app.
So what is the cheapest way of diagnosing faults with a 2002 330d?
What hardware do I need?
What software do I need?
How much is this likely to cost?
Thanks,
Anton
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It only forms part of the lollipop bush. If you weren't looking for it specifically then you would think it was just part of the main bush.
If you search on ebay for the front control arm bush and zoom in on the bush you will see the bit I have pictured above.
(I cant paste the address in the reply box for some reason)
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Anyone any ideas on why these are designed as such? Why not just cast that rubber donut into the bushing in the first place?
For those of you who have had them fall out, did you notice any difference in handling?
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Certainly is. If you can't find yours, that could be the cause of your problem. If I was in your position I'd be pulling everything apart in an attempt to find it.
right.... that will be 1st job at 16:15 when I get home. I will also take the entire inlet manifold off as I need to measure my swirl flap holes and also check my swirl flaps are not knackered.
Noone likes knackered flaps.....
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Get some fairy liquid and water mixed up in a spray bottle and spray all over the suspected area.
Then get someone to rev the car, you may get enough boost up to show you where the leak is.
Although revving a turbo from idle probably wont create enough boost to create a telltale.
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Definitely not a polybush, and doesnt looked like a destroyed bush.
See pic below for the part i mean;
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Simon - its the "lollipop" bushing that I am talking about which attaches to the front control arm.
The whole bushing hasn't fallen out, only these two "donuts". They seem to be bits of rubber that form part of the bushing. They are a separate part ie they haven't been torn off the bushing or perished. Strangest design for a bushing ive ever seen! Il try and post a pic later of the bit that has fallen out.
Ive only had the car a couple of months and I keep finding more and more small things that the previous owner has either fcuked up or bodged!
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Sounds like you still have a boost leak from where that pipe popped off. The clip just must not be doing its job properly at the minute.
Which oil for my E46 330 CD M Sport?
in Technical help (E46)
Posted
What sort of mileage/ time period are you leaving between oil changes?
Ive never been a fan of these "long life" interval periods and plan to do the oil changes every 6-8k miles.
Would this mean I can use non "long life" oil?
Thanks,
Anton