Reefknot Posted May 22, 2010 Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 Here's a write up with photos, of my repair to both my foglights. After looking around and finding that you can't just buy the glass, or even use something close (kit car spares websites etc) I had a go at fixing the originals. An A4 sheet of 5mm thick (what I used) Perspex can be picked up from Ebay etc for the huge price of £1:50. A tube of black silicone sealant can be picked up for around £2. Euro car parts sell the stuff. First unclip the foglight surround by pulling it forward. Remove the lamp securing screw using an 8mm socket. An extension bar is needed if using a normal ratchet handle. Unclip the electrical connector from the back of the lamp assembly. Remove the lamp assembly to a workbench or similar. Here’s mine showing the cracked glass. With care, remove (hit with hammer!) the broken glass. Use gloves to prevent cutting yourself. Remove the last of the sealant used to secure the glass. I used a craft knife and small flat bladed screwdriver. Using a Dremmel, file down the inner lip until it is level. Make a paper pattern that fits inside the front of the lamp assembly where the lens will fit. This will be used to ensure the correct shape of the new Perspex lens. It’s not a perfect oval shape and there is a short flat section of edge. Using the paper pattern, mark the shape onto the sheet of Perspex. Cut out the new lens from the sheet of Perspex. If there is a protective film, leave it in place to prevent scratches. Use a jigsaw or junior hacksaw. I used a junior hacksaw for more control. Take your time with this bit. After sawing Perspex before, I realised that a saw with large teeth will crack the edges. When you have cut out the lens shape, remove the rough saw marks with sandpaper or a smooth flat file. I found that a small bevel had to be shaped into the left and right edges to make it fit the lamp assembly. Peel off the protective film. The lens fits the lamp housing nice and snug. Place a bead of black Silicon sealant in the lamp assembly and fit the new lens. I squeezed more sealant into the edge of the lens to make sure it would be waterproof at the front. Allow 3-6 hrs to cure. I trial fitted the lamp surround at this point, and found that the new lens sat back from the front edge of the surround by quite a bit and looked odd. I decided to add another sheet of Perspex to the inside of the surround as there was room. The front of this lens now sits flush with the surround. Reconnect the electrical lead, screw the assembly back into the bumper and refit the cover. Job done, and money saved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmarB Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 Thanks so much for this, you have just saved me £96. I will be doing this soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmarB Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 Hi can you please send me a link to the perspex? I want to do this but just can't find the parts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickos Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 awesome! fancy doing some sets as a group buy perhaps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmarB Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 I would be very intrested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowcatxx87 Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 HUGE Thanks mate! Yeeeehaw (that's what the cowboys say out here ) Would it be safe to say that 10mm thick plexiglass is better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmarB Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 I just ordered this, will let you know how I get on. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CLEAR-PLASTIC-SHEET-...89#ht_500wt_928 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jorge- Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 Oh sweet, could do this with yellow acrylic instead, translucent stuff to save tinting it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowcatxx87 Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 I just barely cut the inner lip, just enough to give the outside lip an edge so it doesn't slide off. I used 9mm thick Acyrlite FF. Works well. I need to use some vinyl to cover up where you can see through, I'll post pics of what I mean. Looks good though! Because they're so clear compared to the OEM ribbed glass, you can barely tell you have fogs haha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefknot Posted July 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 Thanks for the comments folks. I don't think I'll be making any for sale. It's easy enough to do yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 Great idea! As Jorge says, can get tinted perspex too for the US look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maffia318 Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 Here's a write up with photos, of my repair to both my foglights. After looking around and finding that you can't just buy the glass, or even use something close (kit car spares websites etc) I had a go at fixing the originals. An A4 sheet of 5mm thick (what I used) Perspex can be picked up from Ebay etc for the huge price of £1:50. A tube of black silicone sealant can be picked up for around £2. Euro car parts sell the stuff. First unclip the foglight surround by pulling it forward. Remove the lamp securing screw using an 8mm socket. An extension bar is needed if using a normal ratchet handle. Unclip the electrical connector from the back of the lamp assembly. Remove the lamp assembly to a workbench or similar. Here’s mine showing the cracked glass. With care, remove (hit with hammer!) the broken glass. Use gloves to prevent cutting yourself. Remove the last of the sealant used to secure the glass. I used a craft knife and small flat bladed screwdriver. Using a Dremmel, file down the inner lip until it is level. Make a paper pattern that fits inside the front of the lamp assembly where the lens will fit. This will be used to ensure the correct shape of the new Perspex lens. It’s not a perfect oval shape and there is a short flat section of edge. Using the paper pattern, mark the shape onto the sheet of Perspex. Cut out the new lens from the sheet of Perspex. If there is a protective film, leave it in place to prevent scratches. Use a jigsaw or junior hacksaw. I used a junior hacksaw for more control. Take your time with this bit. After sawing Perspex before, I realised that a saw with large teeth will crack the edges. When you have cut out the lens shape, remove the rough saw marks with sandpaper or a smooth flat file. I found that a small bevel had to be shaped into the left and right edges to make it fit the lamp assembly. Peel off the protective film. The lens fits the lamp housing nice and snug. Place a bead of black Silicon sealant in the lamp assembly and fit the new lens. I squeezed more sealant into the edge of the lens to make sure it would be waterproof at the front. Allow 3-6 hrs to cure. I trial fitted the lamp surround at this point, and found that the new lens sat back from the front edge of the surround by quite a bit and looked odd. I decided to add another sheet of Perspex to the inside of the surround as there was room. The front of this lens now sits flush with the surround. Reconnect the electrical lead, screw the assembly back into the bumper and refit the cover. Job done, and money saved. hello pal seems u may be able to help me.... how do i change the front fog bulb in my 318ci? i tried removing the white screw and pulling the lens out but no joy, so does this mean i gotta go underneath and take off belly pan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...