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Dirty Peeling Rubber Cupholder Console Trim Fix For $2 In 5 Minutes Pictorial Diy!

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Anyone got any tips for spraying the actual things with the plasti dip? Like how far away to spray from, just little sprays, or really go for it?!

Cheers

Plastidip tips: first coat light to give some adhesion, then after just spray like normal. Runs etc will vanish with plastidip, it levels itself out. Also, you can put the bottom of the plastidip can in warm water to get the pressure up a bit.. i've never bothered though

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Great tips, thanks rickeh.

Anyone got any tips for spraying the actual things with the plasti dip? Like how far away to spray from, just little sprays, or really go for it?!

Cheers

Plastidip tips: first coat light to give some adhesion, then after just spray like normal. Runs etc will vanish with plastidip, it levels itself out. Also, you can put the bottom of the plastidip can in warm water to get the pressure up a bit.. i've never bothered though

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No probs, just read the comment about 6-7 coats too, u wont need that much. Plastidip is really heavy, especially if same colour as you're putting on to. I did my wheels which were silver mv2 and they took about 4-5coat

Edited by rickeh
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No probs, just read the comment about 6-7 coats too, u wont need that much. Plastidip is really heavy, especially if same colour as you're putting on to. I did my wheels which were silver mv2 and they took about 4-5coat

You did your alloys with it? Isn't it a bit soft for external use? Wouldn't it be in danger of scuffing and peeling off etc on wheels? Or does it harden a lot more than I'm imagining?

Maybe I'll do the black around the wingmirrors with it if it's that touch.. that'd look good!

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Quick update for anyone wondering. Did the centre console and trays at the weekend. Neither had all the rubber completely rubbed off, but it didn't seem to matter after 2 or 3 coats. Ended up doing about 4 coats cos there were some air bubbles which ruined a couple of parts - probably where I sprayed it on too thick. Also I didn't get a perfectly smooth finish, more of a fine mottled effect, which actually looks quite good! Going to do the front console below the radio next.

Tell you what though, it's messy stuff. Very hard to stop the can clogging up and it spraying everywhere except forwards! Smells extremely solventy too, so they're not joking when they say do it in a well ventilated place!

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I saw a thread on a US site where someone had used plastidip and it didn't look good because you could still see the scratches. I was thinking of sanding mine down (eject box), plastic filler primer and then paint. I sprayed my carbon cube trim with Halfords Satin black spray so thought I might try on the eject box.

What do you guys think? Right way to go or not?

Cheers.20131111_205119_zps51d179ea.jpg

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Try nicking your mrs's hair dryer and do gentle strokes from about 2ft away after each coat especially if you are spraying out doors...or even better a modeling heat gun as they are cooler and designed for that specific use.

Lee F

Cheers Lee. Does that smooth out the finish then? I'm spraying indoors - with all the windows open and a mask on. Too cold windy & rainy in Manchester to attempt this outside.

I've done the centre console, which came up all bobbly like an imitation leather look. Then yesterday I started on the ashtray and sunglasses console. I tried spraying that on a lot thicker - too thick I thought - but now it has dried it has made a nice smooth finish like the OEM. Which is annoying as I'm gonna have to buy another can of plastidip and re-do the centre console again!

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Quick question about the spraying technique - Is it best to spray it on so thick that all the little globules of paint all join up and you end up with a continuous covering of it? I thought that would be too much, as it runs when on a vertical surface? But that seems to have worked the best on my tray lids. Or is it better to do thin layers and just build them up?

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Can you not just wet sand it when finished with say 2000 grade paper, then polish it to get the smooth finish?

Lol try sanding your tyre. You'll see the problem pretty quickly ;)

I thought the plastidip hardened? Is that not the case? I'd rather a polished hard finish then it being soft again...

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No probs, just read the comment about 6-7 coats too, u wont need that much. Plastidip is really heavy, especially if same colour as you're putting on to. I did my wheels which were silver mv2 and they took about 4-5coat

You did your alloys with it? Isn't it a bit soft for external use? Wouldn't it be in danger of scuffing and peeling off etc on wheels? Or does it harden a lot more than I'm imagining?

Maybe I'll do the black around the wingmirrors with it if it's that touch.. that'd look good!

Yeah man did my alloys in it. Done 5k miles on em now, to be fair I got more stone chips than anything, but u could only see em close up. Plastidip in aerosol can has a thinner in it, so if u get stone chips etc you just clean the wheel and spray over the chips, the thinner eats into existing plastidip and 'melts' together. Also works when u curb it etc.

My mv2's are f*cked with rust etc anyway, this is before plastidip and after (same wheel)

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Also, just wanted to give an update on how mine's fared over the last 6 months..

It's fine on the ashtray/sunglasses cubbyholes section at the front, but any part in regular use which comes into any contact has been ripped and ruined. I.e. the sides of the centre console have two big arches of damage in the plastidip caused by the seatbelt socket moving back and forth.

I was wondering if anyone's ever thought of or tried using a matt varnish over the plasti-dip to see if that makes it more durable?

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I found exactly the same as you. You can spray regular lacquer over the PlastiDip to toughen it up if you want. Makes it harder to peel off though.

PlastiDip also sell a "primer" that makes the PlastiDip a permanent coating and vastly improves adhesion. If your alternative is to buy a new centre console you may want to try this stuff first and put a good 5 or 6 coats of PlastiDip on top of it! I just PlastiDip'd my motorbike and found that adding multiple thicker coats made it immeasurably tougher. In the end though if you constantly rub against it (like the seatbelt clips) then I guess it'll give up the ghost sooner or later...

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Thanks Jim. Yeah I think I will do the whole console again when I can be bothered.

What kind of laquer would you recommend? Is it just like a lacquer for going over bodywork paint? Could you possibly give me a link to an example please?

Thanks

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Just google it mate - we call it lacquer and the yanks call is clearcoat/clearcote I think.

Ordinary automotive lacquer is what I've seen. Plastidip do make their own lacquer-type finishes though. Personally I'd go the route of the Plastidip primer and then 5 or 6 good coats of the Plastidip. Don't think any lacquer would really improve durability over that finish...

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Sorry to revive this old thread but was searching for ways to tidy some tatty console plastics. Judging by poeple's experience with Plastidip, I think I'll give that a miss as it seems to wear off in fairly short order. I've painted plastic before with paint made for vinyl with good results. So, for the cost of a tenner, I think I'll give this a try:http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/cleaning-body-repair/specialist-decorative-paints/halfords-flexible-vinyl-paint-black

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That looks like it's just halfrauds version of plastidip to me. I've used cheap versions in the past and they have been worse then plastidip itself.

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Wow I couldnt wait to try this, so I started tonight. The results are amazing I didnt take many before pictures, but here are the photos I have. It makes them much shinier than the old, dulled rubber coated parts that I had. I kinda like that. I was concerned that it would make the black parts a lighter shade, but that didnt happen. Id say it made them brighter. Youll notice that I have two sets of the cupholder and console in these photos. Thats because I just bought a replacement armrest and the seller threw in the entire console too. So I put those in the photos for comparison. I tried to take the photos in the harshest light so you could see every defect. Ive still got a little work around the edges, but this is a big improvement. It takes some effort to get this accomplished, but its well worth the effort. Take a look

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