Johnny 5C Posted August 8, 2011 Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 So after 3 months of owning my car I finally got around to changing the oil at the weekend. (not that it was due, just wasn’t sure if the garage I bought it from had changed it. Just establishing a baseline with some good stuff) I couldn’t get the oil filter cover off, but still changed out the oil. Is it possible to drop in a new oil filter without draining the oil? Something tells me it might be possible…. Anyhoo, I have posted before about an oil leak, so while I was under there I thought I’d do some investigation and take some photos. I gave it a good clean too…. Note the drips of oil on the bolts…. There was a lot of oil on the engine tray, but I couldn’t find a definite trail. There was some around the oil filter, but not loads. The hoses in pic 3 are towards the rear of the engine. It looks like oil has been blown back by the wind onto the exhaust and cat etc. One thing to note is this car had an expansion tank let go in its history. Could this be linked? Now I have had a clean I will get under for another look after a week. Still sounded a bit tappety after the change….. Cheers John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian332isport Posted August 8, 2011 Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Is it possible to drop in a new oil filter without draining the oil? Something tells me it might be possible…. Yes, it is possible to change the filter without draining the oil. Not sure about the leak, but it looks like you could do with a new serpentine belt. Horrible cracks in the existing one. If it breaks, your water pump, power steering pump and alternator will all stop working. Ian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonlpearce Posted August 8, 2011 Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Check your power steering levels. I think they use crimps on a lot of the PS hoses rather than jubilee clips, its the crimps which over time will start to weep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny 5C Posted August 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Appreciate the heads up on the serpentine belt. Any idea (ballpark) how much im looking at? So this could be PS fluid not engine oil? Interesting the oil level has been perfect, just horrible and black. Now its better and I'm happier. I'd have thought a BMW engine with 74K would have responded better to the new oil though. Sounding tappety and the idle is all over the place. Could the ECU be responding to the change in oil viscosity? John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonlpearce Posted August 8, 2011 Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Really depends what oil you have put in it tbh, and the overall condition of the engine. I doubt the ECU would recognise the change in viscosity though, if its tapping you probably have a sticky lifter. Not really something to worry about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc l Posted August 8, 2011 Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Hi i have the same engine fitted to my 318ci coupe. When i first gotn the car i had a slight oil leak from my oil filter housing. Changed the gasket and both rubber seals on the bush inside the housing and doesnt use a drop now Hope that helps, read on here that its quite a common problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr T Posted August 8, 2011 Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 I too have had the oil filter housing seals replaced as oil was weeping out. not enough to notice a drop in oil level but i made a mess of the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcjdavis1 Posted August 8, 2011 Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Hi. I would start with changing the Oil Filter Housing Gasket. The parts are less than a tenner from the dealer. You can get one of these- http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_199193_categoryId_165469_langId_-1?cm_sp=Intelligent_Offer-_-Product_List_Zone_1-_-Blank&iozone=PLPz1 for changing the oil filter. You may need a new Oil Spray Bar, part No's11/12- http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AL32&mospid=47631&btnr=11_2061&hg=11&fg=25 . Tappit noise maybe blocked pipe causing oil starvation. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny 5C Posted August 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 This place is awesome. I assume the Oil filter housing gasket is where i have marked on the attached? Just remove the bots whip it off replace the gasket and bolt back on? How easy is the oil spray bar to change? I guess its just accessed from under the rocker cover? This assumes a blockage in the spray bar/hollow bolt.. A job to keep on the back burner. Off ot get a cup wrench on the way home tonight! Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny 5C Posted August 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Thanks to Jim, Just discovered realoem.... wow.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc l Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Yeah the bolts you circled are the ones u need to remove but there's some the other side too You need to remove the airbox, alternator, power steering pump pullet too Not a hard job tbh if you have the tools If you're gonna do the gasket change the 2 rubber o rings that go in the bush, on mine it was leaking there m ore then the gasket Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcjdavis1 Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Hi. As already said things to remove- Alternator and belt Belt tensioner Airbox Unbolt power steering tank to move out the way Take lid off oil filter housing to let oil drain to sump After that its plain sailing, mind and clean off old gasket. Try an engine flush, I used cheap supermarket diesel engine oil . Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny 5C Posted August 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Got a quote for the aux belt, so Im going to get that done (£55) I think I will do the gasket myself, sometime soon. Picket up a cup wrench last night and swapped out the filter. Very easy 10 minute job. Also included the rubber seals. So this engine flush? You put in cheap supermarket diesel oil and then what? run the engine for a while and then replace? Do you add any additive? I'd really like to be rid of the horrible old oil, so it doesn’t contaminate the new stuff. Wife reports car running nicely now and sounding good. She thinks there is a blow in the exhaust now...... Thanks all!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonlpearce Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Id say if your handy enough to do the seals on your oil filter housing, your certainly capable of doing the aux belt. You can pick them up for about £15 from GSF or ECP, its then about 2 minutes work and probably only a 15mm spanner to change it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny 5C Posted August 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Got me thinking now. I did the alternator belt on my old AX, but that was a simple belt. My aux belt snakes every where but its just as simple right? Just loosen off the alternator, remove belt and replace? Any info on the engine flush would be good too. Im off on holiday to France soon and want to be sure my car is tip top. Cheers John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcjdavis1 Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Hi. Make a note off how the belt winds round the pulleys then take the pressure off the tensioner and the belt comes off. Oil flush is easy enough, drain old oil and change the filter add cheap oil then run for a day then change to correct oil. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonlpearce Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 As above, just take a quick drawing of the way the belt goes on and take the tension off, then replace, it really is a 5-10 min job at most. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny 5C Posted August 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Thanks Guys. Going to do this myself. Is there two belts? Cracked one appears to be behind another? Going to check my local Halfords for the belt. If they have one, I’m doing this tonight. Might take some pictures and do a DIY guide? I love it when I have a car I can DIY on. Still got remnants of oil under my nails, and wouldn’t have it any other way. Suspect my neighbours are going to ask me to do simple servicing on their cars. It’s amazing how many people were surprised to see me out in the street with the bonnet up. The old man across the street went out of his way to com over and ask what I was doing. He was surprised to hear I was changing the oil on a Beemer... Thought it wasn’t possible except for an experienced mechanic.... Have to admit I do love the German engineering so far. Everything has been so accessible and strait forward. Just removing the engine tray was easy. Captive screws and it just slots out. Had to remove half the bumper on my Volvo to do the same... Feel I know my car a little better now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcjdavis1 Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Hi. Something else to check. read link- http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=827061&highlight=2000+e46+pipe+connector Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonlpearce Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Yeah there are 2 auxiliary belts, both are pretty much the same method of removal. Have a quick google search and there is likely to be a diy on it somewhere. IIRC one of the tensioners has a plastic cover which you have to pop of to access the bolt that releases the tension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny 5C Posted August 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 (edited) Jim, I will be sure to check that. I'm not losing any coolant (as far as im aware) but while im under the bonnet... Looking at my pictures, it looks like the one nearest the front is OK. Just the one to the rear that is cracked. Hope the part from ECP is the right one, as Im off to get one now to fit tonight. There are three different types on the website.... all continental, different prices, same write up....I will take the photo with me.... Just whip the old one off and compare with the new… Googling a write up as we speak. Seriously, thanks for the support and assistance... Edited August 10, 2011 by Johnny 5C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc l Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Hi if you had trouble with the aux belt this morning let me know done had to remove mine twice now Long live the 1.9 8 valvers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny 5C Posted August 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 Did my aux belt last night. I was able to lever the tensioners back with a ring spanner enough to slip the belts on and off. Very easy. I was expecting to have to take the pulleys off, or at least loosen them. I have attached a picture showing the oil leak from the filter housing. It was very evident after I cleaned the whole area last weekend. That’s the next job. I guess a few things will have to be stripped back to get access, but I’m on a roll.... It seems to be coming from in the cavity I have marked with an arrow... Thanks John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny 5C Posted August 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) I did my oil filter housing gasket and one way valve yesterday. All looking good so far. Had a real good clean up with de-greaser and the engine now looks much better. The job wasn’t too difficult, once I had worked out what had to come off first. The alternator was a bit stubborn, and took some persuasion to come off. The bushes to the rear had corroded quite badly, and i couldn’t wind them back at all, even with the alternator out of the engine. (Took a rubber mallet to get it back on) It had (has) a real rough idle now though, the same as when I changed the oil over a few weeks ago. Just hoping that it settles down. Was almost going to stall a few times, which isn’t what I’d expected, and the other half is not impressed, but hopefully it will correct with time. The battery was disconnected for 3 hours. Got a long drive in Europe soon, want to get it all sorted before i go. Which reminds me, is is simple to switch the (OEM) headlight beams over for European roads? I have googled, but it seems that I'm the only E46 without Angel Eyes or Xenons... (Actually, i assume i haven’t got xenon) Given my experience so far, BMW will have made it simple, right.? Really don’t want the stick on jobs..... Cheers John Edited August 30, 2011 by Johnny 5C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny 5C Posted August 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 Some pictures: Still very rough idle. What could cause the idle to be rough? It was on ramps for 3 hours, did the gasket, topped up the oil and done. Could i have missed a hose somewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
