DakotaFred Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 I have recently installed a 2 DIN Navi, and changed my center console from an old 1 ASC buttoned to a ASC+seat heater unit. This one fits perfectly but the plug from my old ASC button has a small flat 4 pin connecter, the new button unit has the same but with an 3 pin connecter. When I connect it all the lights turn on but I cannot turn off the ASC. I already know what pins are what, but I don't understand why the switch has only 3 pins and how I can make this work. Does any unit exist with seatheating but with 4 pins? Thank you for any help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B0B Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 Never heard that one before. When I fitted seat heating to my car I went from a single asc button to a button bar with seat heating and a dsc button, but the connections were the same for the asc/dsc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian332isport Posted June 16, 2013 Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 I vaguely remember looking at this when I did my heated seat retrofit. From memory, you need to make the ground (and possibly the power) connection in the main connector. The ASC button (or DSC in my case) picks this up internally. I was retrofitting heated seats, so had to make these connections anyway, but if you don't have anything in the main connector, I think that's the problem. Ian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DakotaFred Posted June 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 I vaguely remember looking at this when I did my heated seat retrofit. From memory, you need to make the ground (and possibly the power) connection in the main connector. The ASC button (or DSC in my case) picks this up internally. I was retrofitting heated seats, so had to make these connections anyway, but if you don't have anything in the main connector, I think that's the problem. Ian. My main connector has 4 holes, and 4 wires. The problem is, the button bar socket has only 3 pins for my 4 holed connector... If I know well, the original pins are the following: pin 1 - switch contact pin 2 - ground pin 3 - illumination power pin 4 - switch contact But i dunno the new 3pinned ASC socket's wiring... Any idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian332isport Posted June 16, 2013 Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 When I refer to the main connector, I mean the big multi pin one, not the small ASC/DSC connector. Do you have anything other than the ASC/DSC connector ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DakotaFred Posted June 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 When I refer to the main connector, I mean the big multi pin one, not the small ASC/DSC connector. Do you have anything other than the ASC/DSC connector ? Ahh, okay. So what I should do now, is to find the ground in the main connector and link it. But what I dont understand is the order of cables. On the small connector there are only 3 pins, matching to plug 1-3 holes. But the 4th hole, which is "switch contact" remains without pins... And I guess I not gonna find it on the main connector. I may misunerstand you... Anyway I gonna check the main connector tomorrow Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian332isport Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 My main connector has 4 holes, and 4 wires. The problem is, the button bar socket has only 3 pins for my 4 holed connector... If I know well, the original pins are the following: pin 1 - switch contact pin 2 - ground pin 3 - illumination power pin 4 - switch contact But i dunno the new 3pinned ASC socket's wiring... Any idea? Just been looking at the wiring diagrams, and I don't think your connector details are correct. Pin1 - 12v feed from fuse F33 Pin2 - Connection to ASC/ABS unit Pin3 - Switch illumination Pin4 - Ground. I think the problem you have is due to pin 4 not having a matching pin on the new switch unit. On the original setup, when you pressed the ASC button, it effectively connects pin 2 to pin 4 (grounds pin2). Now pin 4 has no connection, it can't ground pin2. On the new switch unit, the ground is connected internally from the main ground connection on the big connector. If you don't have this connection, you don't have any ground inside the unit to replace the old connection on pin 4. Ian. DakotaFred 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DakotaFred Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 My main connector has 4 holes, and 4 wires. The problem is, the button bar socket has only 3 pins for my 4 holed connector... If I know well, the original pins are the following: pin 1 - switch contact pin 2 - ground pin 3 - illumination power pin 4 - switch contact But i dunno the new 3pinned ASC socket's wiring... Any idea? Just been looking at the wiring diagrams, and I don't think your connector details are correct. Pin1 - 12v feed from fuse F33 Pin2 - Connection to ASC/ABS unit Pin3 - Switch illumination Pin4 - Ground. I think the problem you have is due to pin 4 not having a matching pin on the new switch unit. On the original setup, when you pressed the ASC button, it effectively connects pin 2 to pin 4 (grounds pin2). Now pin 4 has no connection, it can't ground pin2. On the new switch unit, the ground is connected internally from the main ground connection on the big connector. If you don't have this connection, you don't have any ground inside the unit to replace the old connection on pin 4. Ian. Ahh now its clear, my wiring diagrams were wrong... It makes sense. Dont you have any info about wiring diagram of main connector by any chance? Anyway thanks a lot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian332isport Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Right, bit more digging, and what I posted previously was not 100% accurate. It's not the ground that's missing, it's the 12v feed. Same principal though. If you look at the 4 wires you have in the connector, it will be the green/blue/yellow wire (green main colour, blue stripe and yellow bands) on pin 1 that doesn't have a mating pin on the switch unit. Pin 2 should be blue/violet, pin 3 should be grey/red, and pin 4 should be brown/black. Pin 4 is actually the only ground connection to the switch unit, so has to be there. When you press the original ASC button, it connects the 12v on pin 1 to the ASC unit on pin 2. On the new switch unit, you don't have the 12v feed, so it can't switch it out to pin 2. After a bit more googling, it looks like you need to move the green/blue/yellow wire from pin 1 of the 4 pin connector to pin 22 of the main connector. You can actually put any 12v feed you like on pin 22, but seeing as you have a redundant 12v feed anyway, it seems a shame not to use it. It's also fused at the correct level, so nice and safe. If you were to check for continuity between pin 2 of the 4 pin (actually 3 pin) connector and pin 22 of the main connector, you should see them short together when you press the ASC button. This will prove that pin 22 is the correct one. On the main connector, you have 2 rows of pins. One row has 3 larger pins. This row is pins 1 to 13. The other row is pins 14 to 23. Pin 22 is going to be one in from the end, but I'm not sure which end. Using the continuity test above will identify the correct one, assuming the pins are not actually labelled. Hopefully this will get you up and running. Ian. DakotaFred 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DakotaFred Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Right, bit more digging, and what I posted previously was not 100% accurate. It's not the ground that's missing, it's the 12v feed. Same principal though. If you look at the 4 wires you have in the connector, it will be the green/blue/yellow wire (green main colour, blue stripe and yellow bands) on pin 1 that doesn't have a mating pin on the switch unit. Pin 2 should be blue/violet, pin 3 should be grey/red, and pin 4 should be brown/black. Pin 4 is actually the only ground connection to the switch unit, so has to be there. When you press the original ASC button, it connects the 12v on pin 1 to the ASC unit on pin 2. On the new switch unit, you don't have the 12v feed, so it can't switch it out to pin 2. After a bit more googling, it looks like you need to move the green/blue/yellow wire from pin 1 of the 4 pin connector to pin 22 of the main connector. You can actually put any 12v feed you like on pin 22, but seeing as you have a redundant 12v feed anyway, it seems a shame not to use it. It's also fused at the correct level, so nice and safe. If you were to check for continuity between pin 2 of the 4 pin (actually 3 pin) connector and pin 22 of the main connector, you should see them short together when you press the ASC button. This will prove that pin 22 is the correct one. On the main connector, you have 2 rows of pins. One row has 3 larger pins. This row is pins 1 to 13. The other row is pins 14 to 23. Pin 22 is going to be one in from the end, but I'm not sure which end. Using the continuity test above will identify the correct one, assuming the pins are not actually labelled. Hopefully this will get you up and running. Ian. Omg, Ian for President! Thanks a lot man, I hope it gonna work. After work gonna try that advice. As I see, the best would be to get a seat heater plug, and add 12V to the wire which's linked to pin 22. (since heated seats will be located during autumn time) Thank you very much for your time and patient! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L333JSA Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Right, bit more digging, and what I posted previously was not 100% accurate. It's not the ground that's missing, it's the 12v feed. Same principal though. If you look at the 4 wires you have in the connector, it will be the green/blue/yellow wire (green main colour, blue stripe and yellow bands) on pin 1 that doesn't have a mating pin on the switch unit. Pin 2 should be blue/violet, pin 3 should be grey/red, and pin 4 should be brown/black. Pin 4 is actually the only ground connection to the switch unit, so has to be there. When you press the original ASC button, it connects the 12v on pin 1 to the ASC unit on pin 2. On the new switch unit, you don't have the 12v feed, so it can't switch it out to pin 2. After a bit more googling, it looks like you need to move the green/blue/yellow wire from pin 1 of the 4 pin connector to pin 22 of the main connector. You can actually put any 12v feed you like on pin 22, but seeing as you have a redundant 12v feed anyway, it seems a shame not to use it. It's also fused at the correct level, so nice and safe. If you were to check for continuity between pin 2 of the 4 pin (actually 3 pin) connector and pin 22 of the main connector, you should see them short together when you press the ASC button. This will prove that pin 22 is the correct one. On the main connector, you have 2 rows of pins. One row has 3 larger pins. This row is pins 1 to 13. The other row is pins 14 to 23. Pin 22 is going to be one in from the end, but I'm not sure which end. Using the continuity test above will identify the correct one, assuming the pins are not actually labelled. Hopefully this will get you up and running. Ian. ^This I had the exact same problem when I fitted my heated seats and associated button bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian332isport Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 the best would be to get a seat heater plug, and add 12V to the wire which's linked to pin 22. (since heated seats will be located during autumn time) Any E46 that has the button bar should have the 23pin connector. You don't need to find a car with heated seats to get the connector. It's only cars that came with the individual 18mm buttons that don't have the 23pin connector. Once you have the plastic connector, it's easy to add the heated seat wiring at a later date. Ian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KundaCro Posted April 14, 2023 Report Share Posted April 14, 2023 On 17/06/2013 at 16:37, ian332isport said: Any E46 that has the button bar should have the 23pin connector. You don't need to find a car with heated seats to get the connector. It's only cars that came with the individual 18mm buttons that don't have the 23pin connector. Once you have the plastic connector, it's easy to add the heated seat wiring at a later date. Ian. Hey Ian. I'm doing the same exact thing on my 01 330Ci. Can you tell me what 23pin connector should I connect that wire for asc button? Connector of asc/abs pump or? Thanks in advance.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted April 16, 2023 Report Share Posted April 16, 2023 On 14/04/2023 at 14:36, KundaCro said: Hey Ian. I'm doing the same exact thing on my 01 330Ci. Can you tell me what 23pin connector should I connect that wire for asc button? Connector of asc/abs pump or? Thanks in advance.. You realised you replied to a 10yr old post??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
