Philsmith1995 Posted August 29, 2015 Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 Hi all, I purchased a 318i (N42 2LTR 2002) a couple of days ago with 95000 miles on the clock. It's a manual Was fine driving home, fine the day after but then developed a starting problem. Symptoms: From start in the morning or start from cold the car starts and the throttle pedal does nothing and it dies. The second start is fine but there is a very rough idle. Once warmed up after about 1 minute it's absolutely fine. At least one time during each drive when I stop go to neutral clutch up and foot of foot brake (don't know if this information helps due to things I've seen about a vacuum?) the rpm drops from normal idle (600-650) to 500 the oil lamp flickers and then it revs up to about 1000 and comes straight back down to normal. If I take the oil filler cap off while running it sounds like the car will stall but I don't undo it long enough for this to happen. Timing chain was done late 2014 along with head gasket etc. The last MOT after this (Feb 2016) still has an advisory of a very small oil leak but doesn't state where from. (Helpful) I'm getting the codes read this evening as a friend has a reader. There is no EML or engine check light though. I will try the MAF tonight as well. not to go off topic too much but I also have a coolant leak, quite a slow one, no smoke coming from anywhere? Also there is no "Mayo" on the dipstick or filler cap and oil was changed 7000 miles ago, still seems a nice colour / consistency. Common problems? Tbh will probably get a mechanic to look at it first thing next week, I know someone that will do things for me for bigger all (I designed all his logos and marketing material. For free. I suppose I'm owed one) It has other issues which are simple fixes Parking sensors solid 5 second beep and not working - found one sensor not clicking Door lock button inside not working - will replace this Air con whines and not really belowing cold air - can't see the last time this was re charged... Brings up rpm to around 800/900 when switched on though Exhaust blowing - new back box so probably not that unless not installed properly, will get this looked at probably quite simple. Might even go stainless steel as I have heard they are prone to rusting. Steering out of alignment - the amount of cars/vans I have driven recently with the steering wheel off is just stupid. Some of them have just had 4 wheel alignment! Have mechanics caught some sort of bug recently that impairs their vision?! This is my first BMW and hopefully will prove to not be a massive pain in the ass! Thank you in advanced! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philsmith1995 Posted September 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Okay so codes have been read via OBD (I'm awaiting my INPA kit). P0030 - Heated Oxygen Sensor. May be related to me having a blown exhaust and driving through a large puddle and water possibly entering the exhaust? Might be talking rubbish? P0012 - A Camshaft position sensor "over retarded". I have just ordered two sensors (not OEM but not cheap, phoned a parts dealer who directed me to the one they sell the most of without returns) as i will try replacing one and if all good will replace the other just for good measure. When starting the engine, its sits up at 1100rpm and just for a few seconds there is a noise that sounds as if though something is rattling.. a quick press of the throttle and this goes away.. I also have a problem when driving with the lights on... When pressing the accelerator the lights flicker. This happens when i start the car and lasts for around 15-30 minutes. It does go away. I did check the indicator on the battery (hard to see its under the bracket) and i don't think its charged but it was put in by the previous owner just before i bought the car. I have done the voltage test on the dashboard and all seems good. I will just monitor this at the moment and maybe INPA can tell me more. Any thoughts on the two codes though? timing chain jumped? i think its on the new tensioner i need to bury myself in the SH and find the receipt for it to find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daddyo Posted September 19, 2015 Report Share Posted September 19, 2015 (edited) The 1st thing i would do would be to make sure you have the uprated timing chain tensioner. They are a longer, better designed tensioner than the original and that should prevent any further timing chain issues. They may have upgraded it when they did the timing chain but i would double check. Easy enough as its conveniently located on the front left side of the engine, its just a large bolt head which screw into the block. I think the uprated version has a slightly smaller head but do some research on that one. Secondly i would check your inlet boot for perishing and tears as that can cause idle issues. And before we start bugging out over timing chains being the issue it could quite possibly just be the camshaft position sensor. I had a 318ci and i had to change both cam and crank sensors and she ran like a dream until the day i sold it.( It was at the 100.000 mile mark when they went as well.) Edited September 19, 2015 by daddyo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragamuffin Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 When I read your first post, my thought was cam sensor looking at your engine behaviour...................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philsmith1995 Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Okay so the other day I got the cam sensor plug off, was covered in crap. So I gave it a quick blow out, nothing special, and now the code has not come back, but I'm replacing both sensors anyway, the other day I drove through a large puddle and my guess is that the hole in my exhaust let in some water and has shorted one of the HO2S P0130 P0030 Bank 1 Sensor 1 , I think this is near where the blow in the exhaust is. New exhaust and sensor I think... INPA cable turned up, just need to work out what computer to install it on.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milly56 Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Check fuel pressure/pump I had similar issue on 330, misfire, poor tickover, so changed spark plugs, cleaned MAF (googled symtoms) as when disconnected it ran better(google tip), bought new MAF in a rush (wrong one ) as I was going away to our kids down south - short story - so fuel pump packed up 20 mins from brothers house, got AA to tow us rest of way after checking, no fuel, next day sourced a pump £110 (£85 up north ) and 20 mins later all running again and a pick up in power Pumps are a doddle to change under back seat, lift flap, 4 screws, locking ring, a pipe and 2 wires, just make sure the rubber seal is sat in properly on refitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim JDH Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 In addition to above answers, might be worth looking at the vacuum pump on the back of the head, common for oil leaks too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
