The_Judge_ Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 (edited) Couple of peeps have already done this so thought I'd do a write up of the steps as I got round to this today. Thanks to Jason Kruys and Stubeedoo for their tips If you don't want to remove the pipework and would rather just install a bypass - then check this out: http://www.e46zone.com/forum/topic/53120-egr-and-breather-valve-upgrade/ Note, this DIY was done on a 330D with the earlier type of engine. If you own a later engine than my 2002 184hp engine, you will need to code out a warning light on the dash, otherwise you are lucky and won't get any warnings If you have simply bypassed the EGR using the Allard or a.n.other kit, you may eventually run into other issues. Personally I found my kit never really formed a tight seal, it leaked slightly causing a build up of pressure and a lot of rough idling. So a complete removal of the EGR was required, I was inspired to do this by Jasons' experience: http://www.e46zone.com/forum/topic/45142-jasonkruys-330d-vert/page-2 To perform the delete, the job is very similar to this link: http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f91/e46-330d-thermostat-ac-water-pump-drive-belt-replacement-t103035/ Step 1 - Remove the engine covers using a 5mm hex bolt or allen key Step 2 - Undo the vortex fan shroud. Firstly undo the screw on the drivers side using a torx 25 bit, then remove the plastic clip on the passenger side. I used a small screwdriver to gently pry out the centre pin, then my handy trim removal bits to lever out the pin and the larger plastic socket Step 3 - Undo the vortex fan. Use a 32mm vortex fan spanner to hold the thinner bolt closer to the engine and a regular 32 mm spanner to slowly undo the main bolt. This bolt released a bit of pressure on my car when I made the first turn, it needs to be turned clockwise to be removed. Step 4 - Remove the cable box on the drivers side attached to the shroud. Gently lift the shroud and fan out and Unclip the smaller set of cables. Remove the fan and shroud carefully, taking care not to damage the radiator Step 5 - Move the air pipe away from the MAF by undoing the two Hex 5 bolts. I found it difficult to access the bottom bolt and so used my bendy screwdriver, but an allen key will work too: Swing this pipe to the left to give you access to the EGR connection to the manifold below it Step 6 - Now you can start removing the EGR pipework. First undo the two Torx45 bolts at the manifold This is what the bolts look like The guide I linked to above says the central EGR unit has one 10mm hex bolt, I found in fact there were three bolts. To remove these I had to use my hinged screwdriver At this stage it got a bit tricky and messy. To be able to remove all these bolts, I had to remove the EGR thermostat, but to remove this I had to loosen and shift the position of the vacuum pipe. I also "borrowed" some clips from my wifes kitchen, don't tell (!) So I could temporarily clamp the coolant hose I had to remove my EGR pipework in bits which also revealed how dirty it was The following pic shows how much gunk was getting stuck at my EGR bypass I fitted only 2 months ago. The final bit is removing and blocking off the coolant pipes feeding the EGR stat. I used silicon bungs, thanks for the tip Jason. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=190892513049&alt=web. I bought two 18mm black hose ends and some jubilee clips. I was originally planning to add some sealant but got lazy, they seem to be doing the job. When you undo the bottom egr hose, coolant gushes out so be ready to just pop one of the ends onto the pipe stub. I found just pushing it on held back the tide, giving me time to slip the jubilee clip on and tighten it. Finally you end up with all these bits Step 7 - Now you need to put your blanking plate by the manifold. Its a bit tricky to line up the plate, washer, cage and bolts but doable. The 'cage' thing at the left gets in the way, and frankly you don't need it but I couldn't remove it. I found though if you wiggle it towards you it comes forward quite a bit, allowing you to easily put one bolt through it, the plate and gasket. I could then slide the whole bit back into place and begin to tighten the bolt into its receiving end. I then put the bottom bolt in and tightened both as much as I could. I used this plate, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181216025801?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT, some have used this plate, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321170494662?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 and some have machined their own. Finally, put the fan and shroud back together. I struggled to put the shroud back in, took a lot of wiggling. On a plus note there is now more free space and so it was easier to put the fan back together. Your engine bay now looks something like this Once everything is connected, check your coolant level and top up if required. Then bleed the coolant, if you google this there are plenty of guides. (slowly and just a quarter turn or so) loosen the one remaining coolant bleed screw you have left, and run the car. When coolant leaks from the screw, then job done, tighten the screw. These plastic screws are fragile, so be gentle! Edited July 4, 2016 by The_Judge_ CharlE46, Todd1983, Craig_09 and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly123 Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 Excellent work - I will use this mate Cheers Paul The_Judge_ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Judge_ Posted June 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 Pm me if you get any problems. Pauly123 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlE46 Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 (edited) That's a brilliant DIY Suf, really good seeing well written/photographed DIY's. If I did this I would go one small step further and grind off the EGR pipe mount on the EGR delete valve. Top work though mate Edited June 20, 2014 by CharlE46 The_Judge_ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Judge_ Posted June 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 Thanks mate, yeah I guess grinding that bit off would make sense, its useless now so no point it being there anymore. Frankly I can't be arsedto do much today, especially after the footy ............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
320cdw Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Nice write up, I'll be doing this next week... The_Judge_ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bungers Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Cracking DIY, if I can ever get my EGR coded out I'll definitely be doing this. Are you missing a bolt on the top left of your EGR blank? The_Judge_ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Judge_ Posted July 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Thanks Bungers Yes, I'm missing the top left and bottom right, or to be exact the bolts have snapped and are half in their. The bypass was the first sort of DIY job I did, had a few issues (!) Anyway my mechanic squeezed some sealant round the edges so the connection is tight (ish)! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bargain Bucket Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 I assume you had to have the EGR coded out. Who did that for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Judge_ Posted July 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 I assume you had to have the EGR coded out. Who did that for you? My engine is the older one and so doesn't throw any codes, so in this respect I was lucky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonK Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Nice write up. I don't feel so guilty in not doing one when I did mine now! To be fair, I did mine in the dark and pouring rain lol. Sent from my awesome 1520 using Tapatalk The_Judge_ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sag2 Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Nice write up bud,could be something to look at doing some day. The_Judge_ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todd1983 Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Might do this as can see reducing under bonnet temps with less exhaust pipework Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
320Rob Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 Hi mate how come there is a difference in size for exhaust manifold blank (53.8mm and 70.8mm). Mine is a 2004 320d which would you recommend purchasing? Thanks Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Judge_ Posted November 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 You know - I totally never noticed that difference!! In fact, after a quick glance they are both 8mm diameter blanking, just that one is a thicker piece of metal I guess (?). I used the 53 one, it seems to be working. This thread may give more tips: http://www.e46zone.com/forum/topic/51097-egr-blanking-plate-help/ 320Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
320Rob Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Thanks Buddy! i'm going to order the 53.8mm and hope for best! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpanneR Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Just a note one comes from Poland and well ive ordered min on Wednesday and its taking its sweet time to get here, remember to order the silicon bungs toooo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Judge_ Posted November 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 (edited) Just a minor update ... the car passed its MOT with no issues despite doing this job (MOT in Dec2014) Edited November 29, 2014 by The_judge aka Suf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickdale Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 hello - looking to do this as I've fitted a EGR bypass when you mention a 32mm vortex fan spanner, do you mean just a thin 32mm spanner or is it a specific item? cheers mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Judge_ Posted January 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Hi Mick, I used this one: http://reviews.halfords.com/4028/694653/reviews.htm, I believe is called a laser spanner, the key is the kink in its neck which allows access to the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syemon Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Nice write up. Does the engine warm up any different than before? Quicker maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickdale Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 thanks ordered one :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Judge_ Posted January 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Nice write up. Does the engine warm up any different than before? Quicker maybe? Hi, thanks It generally doesn't affect warm up so much, its more about keeping the engine cleaner and smoother by eliminating the waste gas recirculation and losing one extra thermostat you don't need. However, that being said, I posted a link in the first post which was my inspiration for some of the steps in this job. If you follow that link, then that really is a good guide for improving warm up times and mpg http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f91/e46-330d-thermostat-ac-water-pump-drive-belt-replacement-t103035/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olsrey Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Gonna be doing this soon, so just to clarify I only need to buy two 18mm pipe blanks (with clips) and the egr blank for the manifold? Assuming of course I've got all tools needed? Thanks Olly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Judge_ Posted January 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 (edited) Gonna be doing this soon, so just to clarify I only need to buy two 18mm pipe blanks (with clips) and the egr blank for the manifold? Assuming of course I've got all tools needed? Thanks Olly Yup, thats right - plus you will need to get an EGR blanking kit (if not done so already). Also, take note about the dash warning light - if you're car is susceptible to it, you'll need to get it coded out, I hear its an MOT fail otherwise. EDIT: lol - re-read your post - yup, that looks like everything you need Edited January 3, 2015 by The_judge aka Suf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
