The_Judge_ Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 OK, so I think its time that I attempt these jobs and why not this weekend? I've been doing some reading and am basically going to follow this thread: http://www.e46zone.com/forum/topic/11931-diesel-egr-bypass/ but wanted to check I'm about to do the right thing. I apologise for the stupid questions, I'm good with computers not cars I'm just the kind of guy who plans everything out before getting down to it ..... My car is a 2002 E46 330D i.e. 2926CC Engine. So, if I'm correct from reading here (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_3_Series_(E46)#330 and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M57#M57D30) I think I have a M57D30 engine @ 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp) Is there anyone out there with similar car/engine who has done these jobs already?? Did you use the above guide or a.n.other, is it quite a simple job for a novice ?? Do I just need to buy a Vortex separator or will I need to replace the housing as well? I see many conflicting opinions in the above thread but in the original guide 'Jamesy Boy' seems to have the same engine type and part numbers as I. As far as I can tell from realoem, the part number for my breather is 11127793163 and the actual oil seprator is 11127793164 which is the loo roll type. Since Jamesy replaced this with 11127799366 I figure I can just do this too, for example: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Crankcase-Turbo-Breather-Filter-Insert-3-0-diesel-V20-1113-/221368416392?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item338a95f888 Have I read the correct part number from realoem for my car?? What about EGR kit, the original post is from circa 2010. Is it still considered worthwhile to bypass, or is it preferable to retain it and clean instead, presumably the recirculating technology was thought to be a god idea originally by BMW?? Assuming bypass is still the preferred option, do you need a specific kit for each engine type, or is it just one general kit, how do you determine the correct kit?? I found this one on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FULL-STAINLESS-STEEL-BMW-EGR-REMOVAL-BYPASS-KIT-E39-E46-530D-330D-X5-320D-525D-/161226282722?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2589d5d6e2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 That guide is fine! It's the same process for both 330ds and both 320ds.. As for the filter - get the housing too.. Total is approx £45 so not much plus you get new gaskets with it which is always preferable. EGR - if you clean and leave it in and retain the EGR it lowers combustion temps as the exhaust gas isn't combustible so lowers the volume of combustible matter in the chamber. So in that way it's good! BUT on the flipside you get moore soot and crud going through your engine which builds up and blocks passage ways. Bypassing it means you only get fresh/nice air running through the system so helps keeps it clean etc.. It's up to you which one you think is best. Personally I think bypassing it is better as there's less chance of it clogging up with crud. The_Judge_ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dooge Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 I think yours should be early enough that you wont get an EML light on the dash as well as that would have to be coded out for MOT purposes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Judge_ Posted April 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 (edited) Thanks all. Dooge - in case I do get an EML light, how is it coded out? NCS/INPA or some sort of flashing/reset of ecu ?? Edited April 15, 2014 by The_Judge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Almost certain you won't get an EML light as you have the older M57 engine. When BMW moved to the newer 3.0ltr diesel M57N engine they added a load of sensors and physically changed the EGR (M57 EGR won't fit an M57N) so you wont get an EML light. Generally speaking i'd say if you DID get an EML light from doing it, it's probably highlighted another issue with your engine so you'll need codes reading. The_Judge_ and CharlE46 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Judge_ Posted April 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 (edited) Thanks everyone, ok I'll order the housing as well for a full clean slate. Can anyone help me determine the correct one, I've seen part number 11127799224 and 11127799225 on ebay, for same price approx, neither are listed as compatible with my car on ebay, not heard back from any of the suppliers yet. Edited April 15, 2014 by The_Judge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Judge_ Posted April 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 Finished both of these jobs in the morning. There is an improvement, but my car is still rough idling but that's another story ... The job took longer than I wanted it too. Did anyone find that the EGR Bypass kit they used was not a perfect fit? I couldn't get it exactly into the right place, I basically only have two bolts in it of the 4, one bolt broke in half because of the pressure I put on it to force the kit to move to the left and the final bolt is only half in but rock tight. Basically the "blaocker" neck on mine was too far extended out from the body of the uni as can be seen in this pic: Final result: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonK Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 Could the rough idling not be because you have a dodgy seal between the EGR blank and the intake manifold, where you only have pressure on the top screws? Have you tried pushing it to make a deal while it is idling? Sent from my Lumia 1520 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 How far off are the bolt holes? Can they be drilled to make the bolts go through and fit properly? Just sounds like a lower quality manufacturer tbh.. They've probably got measurements/jig to produce them and they're slightly out.. The quality of the product looks bang on to be fair! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Judge_ Posted April 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 (edited) It was severely rough idling before the job, my foot on the brake pedal was shaking at traffic lights. To be fair the idling has now decreased a bit since the job so i don't think it's related. A few months ago I discovered i had a leak in my injector return line. According to the service history the breather valve was replaced (but still to loo roll) a couple of years ago. My air filter is BLACK, i will take a picture of it! Many of the bolts for the engine covers are wrong and some are missing. So in conclusion i think whom ever the previous owner had do the valve replacement was a brute, they damaged the injector return line and fuel has been trickling out since then, (the damage was right next to the brather housing) I'm going to get a full service done next week and then i can check out the rough idling if it is still there. EDIT: after a day of lettering the bolts/pipes settle into the new position dictated by the kit, i took everything apart again to day and managed to force the gasket in today and put it back together again. Edited April 19, 2014 by The_Judge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Judge_ Posted April 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Did I mention my air filter was BLACK ?? Like I said before, I think a botched breather housing/valve upgrade during the previous owners lifetime, inadvertently caused damage to the fuel injector return line resulting in a dripping of fuel to down into the breather and air filter ... Car is running a lot smoother now after fitting the bypass, new breather and new air filter. My MPG seems to be a lot better too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriggerFish Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Mine wasn't too far off that colour after 10,000 miles (or whatever the service indicator says). Still minging though! I managed to break that fuel return line myself when trying to remove the injectors. Can't imagine running the car with it not connected - that's pikey at it's highest IMO! Got a new whole line with all 6 nozzles for a tenner, but still a pain at the time. The_Judge_ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
