GuidoK Posted December 7, 2013 Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 Cams break like matchsticks. They are so hard (hardened cast iron) and brittle. It is impossible to get a dent in them and almost impossible to scratch (not possible to scratch with something made of metal unless extremely hardened too). They want them so hard to prevent wear. I hope you get things sorted with Schrick (did you buy directly from them?). If you can't get a new one for free, maybe they will get you one with greatly reduced price (coulance/leniency). What I did to check for defects is hang them on a string and lightly tap them (with something metal), on different places to see if the sound changes (like something resonating or the sound getting duller). (After I got my broken cam, I obviously trusted nothing anymore...) I don't know for sure if you can spot a defect this way, but ultrasonic crack testing works the same way basically. Cannockwolf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannockwolf Posted December 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 Thanks mate, might try that on the new one, ill find out monday whats happening. On a side note, the mechanic recons the inlet manifold is to heavy for just the bolts and not to be supported somehow and that might be why it keeps leaking from the gasket (ive had that replaced while they were doing the cams btw) is there anything help support yours? did simpsons miss anything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuidoK Posted December 7, 2013 Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 (edited) It is a heavy unit, but there are quite a few bolts to hold it in place (9pc, all torqued down). It is important that on both sides of the cork gasket blue silicone sealant is applied. Did they do that? (and obviously install it before it dries) I have no leaks I think. What symptoms do you have that you suspect you have a leak at the manifold gasket? Although I do have some idle problems when cold (first 1min or so). Maybe go leakhunting some time again, but I suspect it's the tuning, as most problems I had were all 100% tuning problems (symptoms went away when I upgraded to ts2+) Edited December 7, 2013 by GuidoK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannockwolf Posted December 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 simpsons pinched the gasket on the initial install, then they made their own gasket the second time (forgetting to put the maf back properly in the process!) all the time it keeps coming loose and both times its been tightened several times, finally I have put an oem gasket back on but i dont know whether they have sealed anything. This has meant ive been running lean all the time in between tightenings etc. and caused my valve seat problems do you run a AFR Metre? ive been looking at this http://www.plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=SEMOSMAFRV2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Ad- Posted December 7, 2013 Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 The bolts should hold that manifold no problem at all. What material was used for the gasket? Also it's good practice to use hylomar blue not silicone as it was designed for this purpose and doesn't set and works with heat better Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannockwolf Posted December 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 i got a new one from ess dont know what its made of tbh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuidoK Posted December 7, 2013 Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 (edited) ESS use a cork like gasket (I dont know if it's real cork tbh). Blue silicone like sealant is included in the kit and that sealant stays flexible at heat. I used fairly little (but on both sides as requested in the manual) to prevent blobs of it to be squeezed in the inlet valves. I don't use a boost meter or afr meter. I want to but I haven't found a decent one that I can hide in the interior. Maybe I can hide that module that I posted before in the ashtray, but I'd really like a full analog boost dial. Then you get something like this: btw if I smell my exhaust fumes, I can't imagine it's running lean at any point (I'm more concerned that it's running a bit too rich and that there is something to be gained at that point) Edited December 7, 2013 by GuidoK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Ad- Posted December 7, 2013 Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 (edited) That looks like hylomar dude it was fprmulated by rolls Royce for this purpose! Gasket cork is a more forgiving material some use a rubber type which is also great but sometimes a harder more brittle material is used the name has slipped my mind possibly klinger is the main brand that produces it. I notice on the run down in that video the revs still drop slowly is that due to the weight of the DMF or something else? Edited December 7, 2013 by -Ad- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuidoK Posted December 7, 2013 Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 (edited) It's not hylomar, but loctite 5926 blue silicone. I don't know what hylomar generally is (exept that it is a uk brand name), but maybe that works just as well But this is what ess sent with the kit. It's a multi purpose liquid gasket, as used all over the car (for example bmw also recommends this for the rear diff cover: the paper gasket is not sold anymore) Edited December 7, 2013 by GuidoK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Ad- Posted December 7, 2013 Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 Sorry I come from an industry background we tend to name things by brand names I've always known it as that but yes it's much the same thing just a different brand I was just trying to save someone confusion of using silicone as I've seen it done before and it wasn't good' I know this is a form of silicone but it's not the same as general silicone Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Cannockwolf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannockwolf Posted December 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 (edited) Just ordered this with boost psi sensor and this Edited December 9, 2013 by Cannockwolf Rebel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannockwolf Posted December 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 but if you good with your hands and are confident on hacking your vent then this is cheaper http://www.veisystems.com/products/category/modular-gauge-system-mgs/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Ad- Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 Looks a decent set up that you have bought mate. I don't mean to come across as dumb here but surely if your car is mapped well the afr should be fairly consistent and you shouldn't have to watch it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Cannockwolf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannockwolf Posted December 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 (edited) the manifold keeps coming loose, now i have got a new gasket on and that 'should' fix it, but i dont want to ruin an engine running it lean for ages just for the sake of a few quid so i can keep an eye on it, Edited December 9, 2013 by Cannockwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Ad- Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Oh I remember you saying now yeah! Well I guess it won't do any harm watching it! Hopefully the new gasket will sort it! And word on the cams? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannockwolf Posted December 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 I sent the cams back yesterday and more pics but they're still in talks with schrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonlpearce Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Yikes, just caught up with this. Shame to see the situation on the cams and hopefully that sorts itself out. I guess this is to be expected when supercharging a car though, its all a bit trial and error and you have to expect a few problems along the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannockwolf Posted December 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 i think if you haven't got money and patience then buy an M3!! LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Ad- Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 ^ for sure haha! I'm not wanting to risk doing my own cams now I have seen how brittle they can be! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Cannockwolf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonlpearce Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 If done properly cams should be trouble free. You basically have to rotate them so that only one lobe is pushing down on the valve. You can undo all of the covers except the one next to that lobe. You then have to undo the nuts/bolts at a half turn each to slowly release it. At least it sounds simple in my head, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Ad- Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Yeah I can see the logic in that I should be scared really as I work with much more expensive things worth ten times my car and more but it seems different in industry... Probably because it's not mine and I don't foot the bill if it goes wrong! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuidoK Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 If done properly cams should be trouble free. You basically have to rotate them so that only one lobe is pushing down on the valve. You can undo all of the covers except the one next to that lobe. You then have to undo the nuts/bolts at a half turn each to slowly release it. At least it sounds simple in my head, lol. You won't be able to do it that way. There are 2 cilinder lobe pairs that press simultaniously if you want all other lobes not to press on the valves (and you obviously want that). But yes, basically you set the cams in that position and remove all caps exept the 2 caps on those lobe pairs and then unfasten the nuts from those caps in small increments until they come loose. But installing is a bit harder If you don't have the BMW cam press, you have to wiggle it around a bit to get the nuts on the threads (and if the head is on the block, that can be risky, both for the cams and for the valves (so don't wiggle it too much ). I've seen people really struggeling with that for the M54 On the other hand: I had no issues installing the cams (maybe 4 hours work), and I'm not a car mechanic (nor had I experience installing cams), so a healty brain and 2 hands is all you need. A car is still basically a pile of bolts and nuts The guide on e46fanatics is pretty good (although I varied a bit between that guide and TIS. Reading both before you start makes sense) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Ad- Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 I've watched a video of a guy doing it on YouTube and it doesn't look to bad to be honest but I just don't want to mess anything up :/ he had the engine out of the car! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannockwolf Posted December 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 Been told that a camshaft is on its way from Germany to my suppliers co-ordsport, they haven't mentioned payment so fingers crossed GuidoK and B0B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonlpearce Posted December 11, 2013 Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 Result . Doubt they would ship it without having cash in their hand so i doubt they will be expecting it from you. Cannockwolf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
