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Final Stage Resistor - How To Replace

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So, had what is known as the "hedgehog resistor" fail on the touring and symptoms started with erratic fan speed, pulsing at low speeds and it turns out the fans were coming on when the car was locked overnight! So obviously battery was drained

Turns out to be a known problem so one to look out for potential buyers

Having procured a newer upgrade I set about fitting and did a wee how to for you..

TOOLS..

Your bmw screwdriver

A T20 torx bit

Torch/lamp

Start by removing the underdash panel and drivers glovebox

Phillips screws

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This pic the orange depicts the dead pedal for orientation

The green is a plug clip I use the flat end of my bmw screwdriver to pop out the centre pin and remove plug with my nails

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This one shows a big rubber screw this is easily unscrewed by hand

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Now gently pull down a bit to reveal the plugs for the gong, obd and footlights

For The obd plug you need to slide the grey collar back towards the front of the car and then push the socket out from underneath

Unplug them all and remove panel completely

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Next look at the arrow this is the motor for the vent flaps we need to remove the cover that holds that in so that we can access the resistor which sits behind the motor

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Green is the motor up close and the arrow points to the easy t20 torx

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This picture was hard to take as you really have to do this bit blind but there is a channel at the top of the motor casing and the second T20 is there but it's quite narrow and there ain't enough room for a screwdriver length in there because of the steering column I had to fire up the welder and make a tool LOL

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Once that's out you need to unclip the motor from the casing and then carefully wedge the casing out of the way so you can remove the resistor next the arrow points to the clip you press in and the motor will drop out unplug and put aside..

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Now you can see the resistor, the arrow points to the clip that holds it in, I used my bmw screwdriver to push this right back while I wiggled out the resistor.. Unplug and discard!

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Refitting is just reverse of removal the new "hedgehog" is a direct fit so no problems there

Here's a pic of old (red) and new (blue)

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If you're a fairly technical type and you dont need to make a tool for that dreaded T20, then this job shouldn't take more than an hour

HTH

G

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They've been redesigned a number of times since introduction so there's quite a few different shapes over the years. Aftermarket ones will be different shapes/looks too depending on manufacturer. :thumbsup:

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They've been redesigned a number of times since introduction so there's quite a few different shapes over the years. Aftermarket ones will be different shapes/looks too depending on manufacturer. :thumbsup:

Thanks mate, so is there different variations depending on age etc?!

Thanks

Jake

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I've just done this on mine at the weekend for the third time. This time I have also changed the blower motor and have a couple of things that I wanted to pass on.

Don't do this when you can't get in your garage and you have to do it on the drive when it's -4 and snowing. (my wife needs the car working this week)

This is the first time I've done the blower motor and it took about 8 hours all in (blower and FSR) even with the benefit of experience I doubt it would be less than 4-6Hrs.

Make sure you get a replacement blower motor with removeable fans, I can't see anyway of getting the motor in without breaking them if they don't come off, the fan blades broke on the old one getting it out.

The right hand flap cover on the motor housing (you'll know which one if you've done this, i was too cold to take photos, sorry) has a 'extra' bit of plastic that sits on top of the heater element water pipes, it's nearly impossible to re assemble this cover with this bit of plastic intact, one of the two prongs broke so I cut the whole flap off and it was simple to install then. ;) .

Every bit of plastic is a PITA to get back in to position.

I tested the new blower and FSR before reinstalling the stepper motor in the housing and ended up with the motor and actuator out of alignment not normally a problem as it returns to a default position when you turn the car off, however the battery had gone flat whilst I was testing the fan. so the motor didn't go back to normal position.

If this happens to can't fit it back in the housing, you need to move the motor position to north-south to get it back in (took me about an hour of messing about before I discovered this) If you have a spare battery you can connect that up and it will return back to normal, but I didn't.

Because I'd had two failures within one year I bought the stealer part (£90) it is different again from the two previous parts, doesn't use the nasty potted sealer which is allegedly the cause of many of the FSR probs and includes a bigger heatsink (more metal).

Sorry for being long winded. hope this helps someone.

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Thanks mate, so is there different variations depending on age etc?!

Thanks

Jake

Not so much the age of the car, but I guess the age of the part. The fitment, screw holes, plug connector will all be the same it's just things like the heatsink and plastic block that may have a few visual differences. Just make sure you order off your chassis number or reg plate to ensure you get the right one for your car. And if you want it to last I'd suggest buying either an original part from main dealer as it will have at least a 1 yr warranty or look out for ones manufactured by BEHR as they are the ones who manufacture the genuine BMW part, as there are some real cheap and nasty ones out there and you'll only end up having to change it again a few months down. Definitely don't waste your time with second hand ones as you won't know whereabouts in their life-cycle they are. Common fault though, both my e46's do/did it.

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IBecause I'd had two failures within one year I bought the stealer part (£90) it is different again from the two previous parts, doesn't use the nasty potted sealer which is allegedly the cause of many of the FSR probs and includes a bigger heatsink (more metal).

Sorry for being long winded. hope this helps someone.

Out of interest SpecialK, what make is the genuine one you bought? Looking at an American forum it seems some current ones are being by sitronic/bosch which I would imagine to be more reliable.

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Sorry, I don't remember, BMW part # is 64116920365, BMW did ask me whether the car had aircon, even though I used the VIN number when ordering, none of the other vendors have asked??

The new design is easily identifiable because it has an all metal body and has a plastic 'cover' over the electronics which is a bit shallower than the originals, the last one I had was sitronic, but that failed after 3 months (although it may have been the blower motor that caused it).

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Replaced mine and thought the problem was sorted, but turns out i must have a break in the loom, as when you touch the cable it starts to work, also there is melted plastic on the plug, so makes me wonder if the connection is slighty loose, and causing the connection to arc. either way its a pain, might have to find a spare and try to crimp it on :(

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I just did this, last sunday after following this guide. It took about 1 hour give or take plus 15 mins using the hacksaw to cut my screwdriver back. I must admit I broke the retaining clip for the FSR and didn't bother putting the second screw back. Good write up :afro:

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Just changed fsr as heater stopped this morning,what a nightmare,I'm only 5ft tall and Jesus it was a pain in the arse to do,all working now thank god.feel sorry for all of the taller folk who have this to do,you have to bend in places you never knew bent lol.

All the best of look to get the top screw back in.

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They cost about £40 daz I got mine from c3 BMW they have an ebay shop and source the parts from bmw's manufacturer.

I've done 2 now and if I was to change another I'd take the drivers seat out.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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