LeeMutz Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Is it just a case of tapping this into the main beam wiring that goes to the light?? Or is there a better way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bry1990 Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Do you have a spare plug on the Xenons? As that is the one that controls the bi-xenon output. I believe you have to run wires from the LCM to the lights if you are going to have them connected up as they are done from the factory. On M3's or pre-facelifts with the bi-xenons specified. <br /><br />Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk<br /><br /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob- Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 There was a Canadian guy on here that did a DIY guide on bi xenons. Might be worth having a search for it. I cant remember his username but I do remember him being a gobs**te! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlE46 Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Is it just a case of tapping this into the main beam wiring that goes to the light?? Or is there a better way? It's the easiest way mate as doing it oem means making wiring looms, new xenon LCM's etc Have a read through http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?s=f1b2e742caecbac8d0a5596799659257&t=421528 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeMutz Posted October 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 Is it just a case of tapping this into the main beam wiring that goes to the light?? Or is there a better way? It's the easiest way mate as doing it oem means making wiring looms, new xenon LCM's etc Have a read through http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?s=f1b2e742caecbac8d0a5596799659257&t=421528 Wow, read that but I am terrible with wiring and all that just went over my head.... I was hoping I could literally, tap the shutter positive and negative into the high beam wires at the back of the headlamp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlE46 Posted October 24, 2013 Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 You can mate :-)Sent from my LT30p using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeMutz Posted October 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 You can mate :-) Sent from my LT30p using Tapatalk Thank god for that It wont matter the shutter flipping whenever I flash when xenons aren't on then? Happy days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bungers Posted October 24, 2013 Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 Nope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeMutz Posted October 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 Cheers guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted April 13, 2019 Report Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) UAs a temporary measure I snipped the 3 pin shutter connectors off a scrap BMW, and spliced the middle wire into the positive feed from my main beam, and it works well. Its not a big problem, but obviously you get xenon main beam when you “flash” your lights as well as when you push the stick forwards. Ive just build a FET based micro controller circuit on breadboard using a PIC18F2420, and that detects whether you’re flashing your main beams, or putting them on. There is a 0.5 Second delay due to the detection, but I think I’m going to install it. Here is me prototyping it. The flashing LED represents me actuating a typical flash (up to 0.4S each flash) and then 2 other LEDs coming on, which represents 12V to each shutter. The other 2 wires from the shutter connector on one side are used to supply power to my FET drivers / mCU via voltage regulator, so all three wires are ultilised one side, and a wire from the FET Drain Pin is fed to the other (middle pin) on the shutter connector. small back EMF protection diodes are placed in my circuit going from GND to FET drain on Both shutter drivers. solid state design. no relays to suffer metal fatigue. various ways to do it, but the PIC driver is my favourite. on my breadboard I use a resistor divider 10K / 5K to lower the voltage from 12-15V ( main beam possitive ) to 5V to feed my PORTA.4 pin, which is my trigger. LATB.0 and LATB.1 are used to drive NPN Transistor / P CHAN FETs with to output 12V to each shutter. A single core going across the front links the Right hand headlight shutter with the dual driver sitting behind my left hand light. How it works (software): The PIC starts a timer when PORTA.4 sees 5V, and this timer is cancelled and reset if the voltage is removed from my sense pin before 0.5 seconds. if the sense pin still sees a voltage after 0.5 seconds, then it actuates the FET Drivers on PORTB.0 and PORTB.1. As soon as power is removed from sense it turns off power to the FET drivers, and resets the timer. I have a loop checking that RA.4 is low, and immediately shuts down LATB 0 and 1. flash as many times as you like, just as long as each flash doesn’t exceed 0.4 seconds. A constant trigger activates the shutters until power is cut to RA.4 (trigger sense). simples 👍 The attached schematic is designed for a PIC12F, although it can be modified to use a PIC18F with a 10Mhz resonator. Single FET to drive both shutters, however you can modify to circuit to power 2 FET drivers. One per headlight shutter. i will upload my HEX file for the PIC18F2420 in a while. Sinply bang it in, and it’ll work. will require a 20MHz resonator. RA.4 main beam 12V + (splice and heatshrink a wire in) RB.0 FET Driver 1 shutter left RB.1 FET Driver 2 shutter right 12V and GND are sourced from puns 1 and 3 from ONE headlight shutter control connector, and pin 2 is connected on both sides to the drain pins of BOTH FETS, or one of your using ONE FET Driver. The P CHAN FET is a high power device. Scan 14 Apr 2019 at 08.29.pdf pic18f2420_20mhz.hex Edited April 14, 2019 by AlanT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
