Robotson Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 I have a 2002 320ci with about 100k on the clock. Its been serviced regularly in the 2.5 years I've had it. At the moment it has the following issues, and I'm just wondering if any of them could be linked?: 1. Has developed a coolant leak. When I first bought it, it developed a crack in the expansion tank after a month or so, so I had that replaced. Now i'm thinking perhaps one of the other old-aged parts of the cooling system might have gone, as I didn't replace anything else back then. Its at the garage now to get this fixed. 2. It is either using lots of oil (no smoke from the exhaust though), or is leaking oil. I am aware of a slight oil leak from the cam cover gasket (it drips onto the exhaust manifold when I am at traffic lights on a slight hill, and makes very smelly smoke!). So maybe this has gotten worse, but it could be leaking from somewhere else. I don't see any puddles though, which makes me think it's *using* more oil rather than leaking it. 3. If unused for a couple of weeks, and cold, it occasionally starts like its only firing on 3 or 4 cylinders - i.e. it "chugs" - its more "blub, blub, blub" rather than a smooth tickover. It also causes the car to rock slightly from side to side (as it's a straight 6 I guess). This then sorts itself out after 30 seconds or a minute. My old e36 318is did the same thing - I think putting Redex fuel injector cleaner into a tank of fuel fixed that. Could this be due to low octane fuel (asda fuel) perhaps? 4. Very occasionally, when coasting to a stop with the clutch dipped (i.e. changing down from 3rd to 2nd or 1st), the engine turns off just as I'm about to stop. I guess it's turning off as the revs drop to their lowest point. I know its a 12 year old car and is bound to have the odd issue, but I am just wondering if anyone thinks one or two of them could be linked and indicative of a big problem. cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotson Posted October 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 I forgot to add! There's also an occasional squeal from what sounds like a fanbelt when driving the car off from cold sometimes. Usually under acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear. Then it goes, never to be heard again on that journey! cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonlpearce Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 Cracked thermostat housing if your getting squeal, or at least that's my guess. Depending on how much oil its using, it could have an issue with the CCV. However you mention if you leave it a while and start it, its a bit rough. Sounds like oil is getting into the cylinders causing the rough running until it clears. Most likely valve stem seals. Of course this is just my theory on it, the oil could of course be going through the intake so could be worth taking that off and having a look. Robotson 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotson Posted October 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 Sorry I thought I'd replied to this but it didn't happen! Could you please elaborate for me on those theories as I'm a bit of a novice? Cracked thermostat - how would the thermostat result in the squeal? Oil in the intake - so this could be caused by the valve stem seals failing? Wouldn't this happen every time though? My rough-idle is only every now and again, and generally only when car has been unused for a week and the weather is cold. I want to get the cam cover gasket changed soon as this is leaking slightly at the back - could this be linked to that? Also, would replacing the valve stem seals be the sort of job that could be done at the same time as the cam cover gasket, or not? The leaking cam cover gasket could end up being the cause of the loss of oil anyway, if the leak has gotten worse I suppose. I will ask the tech to check the thermostat tomorrow if he hasn't done already when checking for the coolant leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick330ci Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 (edited) I had a misfire on my 330 at times. pulled the plug out and found oil on it. I knew my cam cover gasket needed changing. so did it at the next service and no more misfire. oil was getting on the plug and stopping it from sparking. Definitely worth changing the gasket sooner rather than later, pretty easy job and not too costly. might fix a couple of your problems. Edit: I wouldn't suggest changing your valve stem seals yet, they are in the head, attached to the valves if you didn't know, so lots of labour. Edited October 7, 2014 by Nick330ci Robotson 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonlpearce Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 Sorry I thought I'd replied to this but it didn't happen! Could you please elaborate for me on those theories as I'm a bit of a novice? Cracked thermostat - how would the thermostat result in the squeal? Oil in the intake - so this could be caused by the valve stem seals failing? Wouldn't this happen every time though? My rough-idle is only every now and again, and generally only when car has been unused for a week and the weather is cold. I want to get the cam cover gasket changed soon as this is leaking slightly at the back - could this be linked to that? Also, would replacing the valve stem seals be the sort of job that could be done at the same time as the cam cover gasket, or not? The leaking cam cover gasket could end up being the cause of the loss of oil anyway, if the leak has gotten worse I suppose. I will ask the tech to check the thermostat tomorrow if he hasn't done already when checking for the coolant leak. Its not the thermostat itself, but the housing it sits in. They hairline crack under pressure just like the expansion tanks do and leak down onto the belt, hence the squeal. Oil on the intake is a sign of your CCV failing and the oil no longer being seprated and being fed into the engine. If left to stand any excess could work its way down to the combustion chamber which could cause a lumpy idle. I am just guessing here though based on some descriptions, its impossible to tell without taking things apart. Valve stem seals are fairly major work, a compression test should show if you have any problems here though and will also highlight any piston ring issues. I think this would be my first port of call. Robotson 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotson Posted October 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 I had a misfire on my 330 at times. pulled the plug out and found oil on it. I knew my cam cover gasket needed changing. so did it at the next service and no more misfire. oil was getting on the plug and stopping it from sparking. Definitely worth changing the gasket sooner rather than later, pretty easy job and not too costly. might fix a couple of your problems. Edit: I wouldn't suggest changing your valve stem seals yet, they are in the head, attached to the valves if you didn't know, so lots of labour. Cheers Nick. I will ask the tech to check the plugs for oil. My old 318is had oil in the plug wells. Can't remember what happened after that though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotson Posted October 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 Sorry I thought I'd replied to this but it didn't happen! Could you please elaborate for me on those theories as I'm a bit of a novice? Cracked thermostat - how would the thermostat result in the squeal? Oil in the intake - so this could be caused by the valve stem seals failing? Wouldn't this happen every time though? My rough-idle is only every now and again, and generally only when car has been unused for a week and the weather is cold. I want to get the cam cover gasket changed soon as this is leaking slightly at the back - could this be linked to that? Also, would replacing the valve stem seals be the sort of job that could be done at the same time as the cam cover gasket, or not? The leaking cam cover gasket could end up being the cause of the loss of oil anyway, if the leak has gotten worse I suppose. I will ask the tech to check the thermostat tomorrow if he hasn't done already when checking for the coolant leak. Its not the thermostat itself, but the housing it sits in. They hairline crack under pressure just like the expansion tanks do and leak down onto the belt, hence the squeal. Oil on the intake is a sign of your CCV failing and the oil no longer being seprated and being fed into the engine. If left to stand any excess could work its way down to the combustion chamber which could cause a lumpy idle. I am just guessing here though based on some descriptions, its impossible to tell without taking things apart. Valve stem seals are fairly major work, a compression test should show if you have any problems here though and will also highlight any piston ring issues. I think this would be my first port of call. Cheers Simon. Thermo housing sounds like a likely culprit then, especially seeing as its never been changed and all the black plastic bits in these cars seems to crack eventually. I'll ask the tech to check the thermostat, and also check the intake and the plugs for oil. Then we'll go from there. It had a compression test about 12 months ago and that was ok, so fingers crossed it's still ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotson Posted October 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 any advice on buying cam cover gaskets? Any makes to avoid/go for? Are they all made of rubber? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonlpearce Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 Go OEM on cam cover gasket. Have heard stories of other failing in 6 months. Think its about £80 from the dealers. Robotson 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotson Posted October 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 Ok, there's 2 part numbers for my car. The bugger is my car was registered Sept 2002! Will the chasis number tell me exactly when it was built? 11129070990 for cars up to Sept 2002. 11120030496 for cars after Sept 2002. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Webby Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 The coolant pipes are just brittle after years in extreme hot/cold conditions. In regards to the oil, have a look at your CCV and the 3 pipes. It's common for it to become blocked after so long causing the oil vapour to be burned rather than recycled back to the sump. If your VCG is leaking get the gasket changed on the journey you will take the DISA out, a symptom of a failed DISA is poor idle too! And give your lower boot a check and whilst your there clean the MAF. Robotson 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotson Posted October 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 The coolant pipes are just brittle after years in extreme hot/cold conditions. In regards to the oil, have a look at your CCV and the 3 pipes. It's common for it to become blocked after so long causing the oil vapour to be burned rather than recycled back to the sump. If your VCG is leaking get the gasket changed on the journey you will take the DISA out, a symptom of a failed DISA is poor idle too! And give your lower boot a check and whilst your there clean the MAF. Cheers Webby. My money is deffo on one of the pipes or the thermostat housing yeah! The other job might have to wait a bit now due to funds! But that's ok as the coolant leak and the lumpy starts seem unconnected. I'll get the tech to check the DISA when he does the VCG. In terms of what I can do myself (i.e. stuff I can reach from over the bonnet and that can be done with simple tools!), will I be able to take the CCV off and check it and the pipes? Its quite accessible isn't it? I'll look for a DIY.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotson Posted October 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Ok the coolant leak has turned out to be the water pump. Not surprised as its as old as the car is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotson Posted October 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Ive just looked at doing the CCV.. I'll leave that to the experts I think! Might get that and the can cover gasket done at the same time when I've recovered from this job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BmEagle Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Ok the coolant leak has turned out to be the water pump. Not surprised as its as old as the car is.you were luckier than me. When my water pump failed on my previous e46 it dumped all the coolant and I had to get recovery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotson Posted October 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Wow so I have been lucky then. Its weird cos I've driven it for about 40 miles since I noticed the coolant was leaking, topping it up halfway. If the pump fails then, would you expect it to let go of all the coolant? Or perhaps there's just a crack in the casing of the pump which has resulted in a small leak? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonlpearce Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Could just be the rubber seal on the pump itself has perished. Robotson 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X-Man Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Yours sounds almost the same as mine (except the stall). It is using about 750ml of coolant every 20 miles now so not getting driven until it's all doneI am planning to replace (on Friday)- Entire Cooling system- Valve cover gasketRough start appears to be an intermittent coil pack fail on Cyl1 according to my OBD dongle and Torque so I'll move it when I do the VCG and see if the fault moves too... Robotson 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotson Posted October 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Could just be the rubber seal on the pump itself has perished. I'll ask the tech to show me what's broken on the pump when I pick the car up. Do you reckon if it was just the rubber seal I'd have a point if I said I shouldn't be paying for a whole new pump then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotson Posted October 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Yours sounds almost the same as mine (except the stall). It is using about 750ml of coolant every 20 miles now so not getting driven until it's all done I am planning to replace (on Friday) - Entire Cooling system - Valve cover gasket Rough start appears to be an intermittent coil pack fail on Cyl1 according to my OBD dongle and Torque so I'll move it when I do the VCG and see if the fault moves too... Interesting! So you can just swap the coil plug with another cylinder's plug and see if the OBD picks up the fault on a different cylinder? I'm too skint to replace the whole cooling system.. I'm just taking my chances and replacing each bit as it fails! Not ideal but there we go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotson Posted October 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 X-Man - PS where are you getting your VCG from? OEM? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X-Man Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Yes going to the stealers today to get wallet raped no doubt! Robotson 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonlpearce Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 I would replace the whole pump rather than just the seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robotson Posted October 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 I spoke to the tech just now on the phone. He said he knew it was the water pump straight away as he could hear it when the other guy drove it in! He said it was thumping and moving about as it was blocked, and was causing a build up of pressure which had caused splits in it too, so it was properly f**ked but hadn't quite given up yet, hence why the car hadn't overheated and killed itself yet! He also said the pipes coming off it were clogged up. He also said he's going to get it up on the ramps later and check for other leaks which could've been caused by the pressure build up, particularly something he called a "water outlet" which is at the back of the engine, on the head. Does that sound normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
