Bamse Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 Noticed a smell of burning after driving to Stansted and back at the weekend. Today, I had quite a pronounced steering wobble between 50 - 70 on the motorway. When I pulled over, the burning smell was back and seemed to be coming from the front right wheel. Am iI right in assuming this is probably the right front calliper that has seized? IIf so, can anyone recommend a good low cost replacement for me please? Also, is it easy enough to change at home? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob- Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 If you're capable of taking the caliper off then you're probably capable of fitting a new seal kit and refurbishing the caliper yourself. Works out cheaper than buying an entire new caliper. I'd usually recommend buying parts from a breakers yard but it's one of those things you'd probably run into the same problem again with a used item. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamse Posted August 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 Just had a look on europarts, new calipers was £85 - £120 actual (I'm assuming the surcharge is because they want your old one in exchange). £85 isn't bad. Is the seal kit easy to do then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriggerFish Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 I paid £80 for a new refurb unit from ECP (on an exchange basis). More expensive, but a lot less hassle. Easy to change at home, but you'll need to bled the brake(s) afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamse Posted August 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 That was my thinking. Gonna jack it up tomorrow and see if the wheel turns freely. I'm assuming this is a good way to see if the caliper is seized. Will need new pads as well I suppose as the right side at least will be cooked. Hope I can get away with leaving the discs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriggerFish Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 Depends on how bad it is I guess. I got away without needing new disks/pads, but I caught mine early, and it never started to smell of burning, it would just pulse sometimes in traffic... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike- Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 Go for a short drive and feel the outside of the wheel, if it's seized then you'll feel the heat coming off it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamworthbay Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 It could also be the wheel bearings so,it's sensible to check before you buy anything. Jack up that corner and grip the wheel at top and bottom and try to rock it, then repeat when holding it side to side. The movement should be minimal/ non existant. If it's significant and happens in both positions then bearings are shot, if it only happens in one position then it's most likely other suspension components but that's unlikely in your case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz 330 Cs Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 As above, if the caliper is binding a rebuild kit from Brakes International is around £20. That's what i did with my n/s/f. It's been fine ever since. Rob- 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamse Posted August 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 Thanks guys. Don't think it's the bearing, as I can't hear any noise from them. I realise that's not always the case though. I will check tomorrow and post my findings. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamse Posted August 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 25 minute drive home on back roads and I could feel the heat coming off the front offside wheel from 3 feet away. Also, noted resistance to free rolling towards the end of the journey. Will find out more tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob- Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 Sounds like you can conclusively diagnose the caliper at fault. I'd do the discs and pads at the same time Bamse 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamse Posted August 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 Yeah, was thinking the same. Its not that much more and they are bound to be the worse for wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamse Posted August 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 Ordered discs, pads and a caliper. Just a quick question, if I clamp the brake hose, will I be able to just bleed that caliper or will I need to bleed all four? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob- Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 If you get someone to press the brake pedal down, you bleed the fluid out then put a brick or something on the pedal whilst it's in the down position then no more fluid will leak out while you change the caliiper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamse Posted September 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 I see. But if I'm clamping the hose, this'll stop any fluid from escaping anyway won't it? What mean is, if in clamp it, will I be able to just bleed that (the new) caliper or will I need to bleed the whole system, starting from the furthest caliper from the master cylinder and working my way towards it? Also, are e46's known for blowing the master cylinders if the brake pedal is fully depressed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunk1 Posted September 1, 2015 Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 Unless you know its been done in the last couple of years or so i'd bleed the system anyway. Brake fluid is pretty cheap and you wont need very much to do the whole lot Bamse 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamse Posted September 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 True. Gonna get a pressure bleeder as well so the master cylinder won't be an issue. Is it DOT 4 fluid I need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunk1 Posted September 1, 2015 Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 (edited) I found using a vacuum bleeder much better than a pressure bleeder when I did my mkiv supra. I also upgraded the brake fluid to DOT 5.1 Motul RBF 600, for just normal rd use DOT 4 is fine Just don't use a Silicon based fluid which is DOT 5 Edited September 1, 2015 by dunk1 Bamse 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamse Posted September 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 Cheers. I've read a lot of good reviews for the Gunnson pressure bleeders with our cars and they have one in stock in my local so think I'll get that. Thanks for the heads up on the brake fluid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ilferco Posted September 1, 2015 Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 I use a Gunnson pressure bleeder. Works a charm. Bamse 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamse Posted September 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 I use a Gunnson pressure bleeder. Works a charm. Haven't read a bad reviews yet. Bit expensive but worth it if it works and makes the job easier on my own. Any tips on using it? Do you open and close one nipple at a time as in normal bleeding or just open them all up at the same time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ilferco Posted September 1, 2015 Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 One at a time, just keep an eye on the fluid level as it soon goes down, then you'll end up drawing air into the system. Don't ask me how I know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamse Posted September 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 (edited) How many times have i put those fateful words on forums Thanks for the advice and Heads-up Edited September 1, 2015 by Bamse Ilferco 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunk1 Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 The bonus with a vacuum bleeder is you don't fit anything to the master cylinder reservoir so its simpler to top it up as you just leave the cap off and top up as required Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
