momo Posted September 8, 2021 Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 My brakes are almost worn now.. It's time that I have to swap out the discs and pads this time so a full replacement. I currently have EBC yellowstuff pads and the dimpled/grooved discs. I'd like to get them again but tbh can't justify them again this time as a full set will cost roughly £500 inc. fitting. It's around £100 for each axle for the pads and around £300 for the discs. I'm tempted to get these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401937390193 I'm just not sure how the drilled discs will hold up (which is why I got the EBC dimpled ones last time). A set of Pagid, standard discs and pads are £265 with the 15% discount from CarParts4Less The same setup from ECP is £334 including their Summer "MOT Essentials" 45% discount (don't know why people even shop there unless it's in-store.. lol). Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontpannic Posted September 8, 2021 Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 (edited) I'm currently running what I think are 6 year old Brembo discs, and 3 year old Mintex eBay pads, and to be honest with you I can't wait to get rid of the Mintex pads. Despite 30-40k miles on these pads they're still not worn enough for me to warrant replacing them and I have a full set of BMW OEM pads in my flat waiting to go on. The Mintex pads are hard as f*ck and just don't inspire much confidence. In honesty, I'm tempted to just go BMW OEM when it comes to doing the discs. The Brembos on there now seem to have been fine (just standard spec discs, no grooves or anything) for nearly 70k miles now by my calculations. Edited September 8, 2021 by dontpannic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted September 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 Side question, how do you know when the discs need changing? The dimples on my current discs are still there but there's maybe 1-2mm left of them.. Where there was probably 5mm when new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontpannic Posted September 8, 2021 Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 There's a minimum thickness stamped on the outer edge of the disc, but they're usually so rusty you'll never see them. They need measuring with a set of callipers to properly verify their thickness and whether they need replacing. I've never done that though, I generally do discs at the same time as the second set of pads (if that makes sense!) Discs and pads -> pads -> discs and pads -> pads. Probably overkill, but meh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted September 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 7 minutes ago, dontpannic said: I'm currently running what I think are 6 year old Brembo discs, and 3 year old Mintex eBay pads, and to be honest with you I can't wait to get rid of the Mintex pads. Despite 30-40k miles on these pads they're still not worn enough for me to warrant replacing them and I have a full set of BMW OEM pads in my flat waiting to go on. The Mintex pads are hard as f*ck and just don't inspire much confidence. In honesty, I'm tempted to just go BMW OEM when it comes to doing the discs. The Brembos on there now seem to have been fine (just standard spec discs, no grooves or anything) for nearly 70k miles now by my calculations. Pagid are OEM for BMW but Brembo are top quality so I'd have no issues getting Brembo discs. But yeah heard mixed opinions about Mintex. This is why I'm leaning towards the full Pagid setup from CP4L. I noticed the ebay advert includes a clause "for off road use only". They're probably drilled in house! No thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontpannic Posted September 8, 2021 Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 Pagid/Textar are apparently OEM, but be careful though - I heard rumours a few years back that the Pagids sold via CP4L/ECP aren't the same Pagid as those sold to OEM's. On top of that, I'd also heard that Brembo's are one of the most copied/ripped off brand when purchasing from eBay so I always tended to go for alternative suppliers in the end. Not sure how true that was but the last time I wanted named discs/pads I went to nextdaybrakes.co.uk instead of through ECP/CP4L. That said, I got the Mintex's through eBay and hate them with a passion lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted September 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 2 hours ago, dontpannic said: Pagid/Textar are apparently OEM, but be careful though - I heard rumours a few years back that the Pagids sold via CP4L/ECP aren't the same Pagid as those sold to OEM's. On top of that, I'd also heard that Brembo's are one of the most copied/ripped off brand when purchasing from eBay so I always tended to go for alternative suppliers in the end. Not sure how true that was but the last time I wanted named discs/pads I went to nextdaybrakes.co.uk instead of through ECP/CP4L. That said, I got the Mintex's through eBay and hate them with a passion lol As far as I knew, Pagid used to be an independent manufacturer that supplied brakes to OEM manufacturers with their badges on, but then also sold non-branded discs to the public via ECP. Then ECP bought them out and took over the entire business including the manufacturing to make Pagid an ECP group exclusive brand. I've ordered my brakes! Didn't hang around long.. 🤣 Remembered a company called mtec brakes. Seen lots of reviews of their discs on various forums including BMW5 from years gone by. The general consensus is they make good quality discs, especially for road/fast road use. Maybe not for track days but let's be honest, i'm never tracking this car.. They also sell the yellowstuff pads again so Mtec discs and yellowstuff pads all around for £360. £140 cheaper than if I bought EBC discs and only £100 more than a full Pagid set up so happy with that. They threw in some copper grease too.. Every little helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
incredirog Posted September 8, 2021 Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 I’m running MTEC brakes slotted discs, with brembo road pads, very nice discs no problems whatsoever and you can get them pre painted on the bits that go rusty momo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted September 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 (edited) 30 minutes ago, incredirog said: I’m running MTEC brakes slotted discs, with brembo road pads, very nice discs no problems whatsoever and you can get them pre painted on the bits that go rusty I just spent £360, I didn't want to pay the extra £30! 🤣 I ordered the "C-Grooved" discs. I've always liked that look and they're supposed to be quieter than slotted.. Let's see Edited September 8, 2021 by momo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunk1 Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 (edited) Got Apec discs and pads all round on mine only used for normal road use and do the job fine. Was told by E46 facebook group they're s**t lol but as said I have no problems with them, no grooves or dimples though but very good price. I had them on my classic RRC and they were fine on that too If its not been done for a while I'd bleed through some fresh brake fluid while your at it Edited September 9, 2021 by dunk1 momo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted September 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 I've not heard of Apec brakes? How do they compare price wise? Fluid gets changed on interval so I think we're ok for now.. I'd normally swap the brakes myself but i'm going to get my mechanics to do it this time as the handbrake needs adjusting too, i've never done that before. Apparently it's pretty easy? I'm feeling a little lazy too so i'll just get them to do it! LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunk1 Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 (edited) Couldn't find my receipt so I just called my local supplier and for my 330ci £305.87 inc vat for discs and pads front and rear, not including handbrake shoes Think you'll beat that price looking on ebay at around £250 for my 330 Edited September 9, 2021 by dunk1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontpannic Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 I'm running mtec discs and braided lines on my Fiesta track car - no complaints at all, very good brakes (paired with Ferodo DS2500 pads). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted September 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 7 hours ago, dunk1 said: Couldn't find my receipt so I just called my local supplier and for my 330ci £305.87 inc vat for discs and pads front and rear, not including handbrake shoes Think you'll beat that price looking on ebay at around £250 for my 330 Ah OK. So around the same as a full Pagid setup. 2 hours ago, dontpannic said: I'm running mtec discs and braided lines on my Fiesta track car - no complaints at all, very good brakes (paired with Ferodo DS2500 pads). That's similar to what I have on my 330d - braided hoses, yellow stuff pads, EBC discs, but now going to these MTEC C-Grooved discs. To be fair discs are discs.. They're steel! So as long as they're made to within spec they should be OK. I'm just not comfortable with a shop taking a blank brembo disc (for example) and then drilling holes through it, it's asking for cracks to appear down the line. Dimple/groove is the only one i'd consider. dunk1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunk1 Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 We did this a few years ago in our race shop and the discs cracked, I definitely wouldn't be drilling vented discs that hadn't been made/designed to have holes in them momo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted September 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2021 Well, that turned into a nightmare! Finally got around to having a go, decided to check I can get the disc retaining screws off first before taking anything apart. Drivers side front is rounded! Can't get it out.. Shame, because the other 3 are fine so I could do them. FFS. Off to the garage to get it all done next week.. 🤬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
incredirog Posted September 17, 2021 Report Share Posted September 17, 2021 they’re pretty easy to drill out if you have the enthusiasm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted September 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2021 18 hours ago, incredirog said: they’re pretty easy to drill out if you have the enthusiasm Yeah I gave up.. I was running short on time anyway between school runs, it was more of a pre-change check I did the other day to ensure I could get them off before starting the job. I know the caliper bolts and the carrier bolts are nice and easy to remove. It's just the disc retaining screws so wanted to get them loose before having a go. I might give it another go on Monday and try drilling that one out. Guessing an 8mm drill bit should work? Would that mean I would have to re-tap the hole? Tbh if I got it out i'd leave it out. Just use the wheel bolts to line it up to put the carrier and caliper back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
incredirog Posted September 18, 2021 Report Share Posted September 18, 2021 (edited) you only need to take the head off the screw, then the disc should come away over the stud, I then got it out with some mole grips, if it’s torqued correctly it won’t put up much, if any resistance. alternatively you could try hammering the correct hex socket in as it may only be the top of the screw that’s rounded, they generally round when the thingy isn’t seated correctly Edited September 18, 2021 by incredirog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted September 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2021 (edited) Ah ok, might give it a try! I already tried the hammering thing.. It's fully rounded inside so also tried going up a size, that wouldn't go in at all. I'm just worried that the screw is rusted in and i'll end up ruining the hub! That's the last thing I need to have to replace that.. Might leave it to the experts Edited September 18, 2021 by momo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted September 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2021 20 hours ago, incredirog said: you only need to take the head off the screw, then the disc should come away over the stud, I then got it out with some mole grips, if it’s torqued correctly it won’t put up much, if any resistance. alternatively you could try hammering the correct hex socket in as it may only be the top of the screw that’s rounded, they generally round when the thingy isn’t seated correctly Quick Q: It's just the lip at the bottom (of the pic) that I need to drill out, right? The flat section in the middle goes through the disc and obv the threaded section into the hub. So it's only like 1-2mm i've got to drill out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
incredirog Posted September 21, 2021 Report Share Posted September 21, 2021 yeah that’s correct, a decent drill bit will eat through it and that will release the tension on the threads so it should then back out nice and easy momo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted September 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2021 1 hour ago, incredirog said: yeah that’s correct, a decent drill bit will eat through it and that will release the tension on the threads so it should then back out nice and easy Thanks mate! Was going to give this a go yesterday then realised my MOT is up in a couple of weeks so i've just dropped the car at the garage to get it all done together.. 🤦🏾♂️ dunk1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
